Tailormade Tanzania

The seemingly endless grassy plains, rocky outcrops, acacia bushland and riverine forest that make up the 14,750 square kilometres of the Serengeti National Park are the setting for one of the world’s most incredible natural spectacles – the Great Migration. At its peak over 1.2 million Blue Wildebeest, 250,000 Plains (Grant’s) Zebras, 300,000 Thomson’s Gazelles and an amazing 2,000 Lions are part of a wildlife spectacle that has to be seen to be believed. These herds are bolstered by a range of other species including roaming African Elephant, Impala, Grant’s Gazelle, Eland, Masai Giraffe, Warthog, Kirk’s Dik-dik, Waterbuck, Topi and Hartebeest, while predators are out in force and, in addition to the Lions, there are Cheetahs, Leopards, Serval, Golden and Black-backed Jackals, Spotted Hyenas and families of Bat-eared Foxes. Although the big game is the focus of many people’s attention, the Serengeti’s birdlife is both abundant and colourful, and includes such species as Southern Ground Hornbill, Black-bellied Bustard, Rufous-crowned Roller and Blue-cheeked Bee-eater. Vultures circle endlessly overhead whilst other raptors include Bateleur, Martial Eagle, Tawny Eagle and African Harrier Hawk.

Africa is a land of dramatic landscapes, but none surely is as wondrous as the Ngorongoro Crater! As you drive up through the densely forested and liana-covered slopes of the crater rim the excitement builds until you reach the rim itself and peer down to see the immense crater floor dotted with animals, trees and lakes. At over 600 metres deep and 20 kilometres wide this is the world’s largest volcanic caldera and its extensive grasslands, mosaic forest, marshes and lakes protect vast quantities of game and predators alike. Critically, the crater is watered throughout the year and this means that its population of over 30,000 large mammals remains resident throughout the year, rather than having to migrate. These mammals include Blue Wildebeest, African Buffalo, Plains Zebra, Grant’s and Thomson’s Gazelles, African Elephant, Black Rhinoceros, Hippo, Lion, Spotted Hyena and Black-backed Jackal. Indeed Ngorongoro is one of the few places in Africa where the ‘Big Five’ (African Buffalo, African Elephant, Leopard, Lion and Rhino) can be seen in one place. The birdlife is no less spectacular with an exciting range of waterbirds and waders in evidence, plus Greycrowned Crane, large flocks of Abdim’s Storks, the localised Rosy-breasted Longclaw, Grosbeak Weaver, Red-collared Widowbird and tens of thousands of Greater and Lesser Flamingoes that line the saline shores of Lake Magadi. The game-viewing is easy and usually a 2-night stay is sufficient to make the most of this incredible location.

Aldous Huxley proclaimed Arusha as the jewel of African national parks – it is easy to see why. Set between the towering peaks of Mount Meru and Mount Kilimanjaro, the park has three distinct zones, the lush swamps and forests of the Ngurdoto Crater, the tranquil beauty of the Momella Lakes and the rocky alpine heights of Mount Meru. Of these, the Momella Lakes are particularly rewarding for wildlife. In addition to the pink flush of Lesser and Greater Flamingoes that carpet the shoreline, the lakes are home to a host of other waterbirds including Hamerkop, Hadada Ibis, African Spoonbill, Southern Pochard, Maccoa Duck and a rich variety of waders. Hippos are common and Waterbuck and Kirk’s Dik-dik loiter beside their drinking pools. From watch-points on the forested rim of the Ngurdoto Crater, Warthogs, Masai Giraffes, African Buffaloes and other mammals may be observed as they feed in the peaceful grasslands of the crater floor, whilst within the forests hide Bushbuck, Vervet Monkeys and Guereza Colobus, together with an exciting though elusive avifauna. The latter may include such species as Bronze-naped and Olive Pigeons, Hartlaub’s Turaco, Spotted-flanked and Brown-breasted Barbets, White-winged Widowbird and a variety of colourful sunbirds and weavers.

This lesser-known park is an essential watering point for thousands of animals that come here from the southern Masai-lands to the thirstquenching Tarangire River. In the park’s rolling bushland and savannah, which is punctuated by spectacular Baobab trees, good numbers of African Buffalo, Eland, Masai Giraffe, Plains Zebra, Impala and Lesser Kudu are found, as well as huge herds of African Elephants up to 300- strong. Indeed, during the dry season when the animals crowd the shrinking waterholes, Tarangire holds the greatest concentration of game outside the Serengeti! Inevitably such large numbers of prey species attract plenty of predators, amongst them Leopard, Cheetah and the elusive Wild Dog. Lions, too, occur in good numbers and, unlike other African populations, are known to regularly climb trees here! This is an excellent place to stop for a night or two before heading on to the Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater. The nearby Lake Manyara is a similarly good spot with particularly good birding.

The journey to Lake Natron winds through rural Masai tribal lands and past stunning volcanoes that line the floor of the Great African Rift Valley. It is a bumpy ride on largely unpaved roads, but the few intrepid tourists that do make it here are in for a treat! The scenery is out of this world and the birding is exceptional. The lake itself is a shallow soda lake covering over 1,000 square kilometres, with an average depth of only three metres; it is a caustic environment with an alkalinity similar to ammonia and hostile to all but the very toughest of life. In season, flocks of migrating waders feed along the lake’s muddy fringes, alongside them such resident African species as Chestnut-banded Plover, Three-banded Plover and the elusive Greater Painted Snipe. White-winged Terns and Collared Pratincoles hawk for insects overhead whilst African Spoonbills, Sacred Ibis and Great Egret feed in the shallows. This is the only regular breeding site for East Africa’s 2.5 million Lesser Flamingoes, although the birds only breed if the salinity and depth of the water is just right and, even then, tend to congregate on the more inaccessible islands in the centre of the lake. Lake Natron will primarily appeal to those interested in escaping the main tourist routes and going deep into rural Tanzania, and who are willing to accept a few hours of bumpy road travel in return for some of the most spectacular scenery in the country! There are a handful of simple but adequate camps to choose from in the area.

The Selous Game Reserve is a scenic wilderness region covering over 50,000 square kilometres, making it one of the largest protected areas in southern Africa. In the northern part of the reserve, which is also the most accessible and game-rich, the great Ruaha and Rufiji Rivers merge to form a network of braided channels and streams, plus several shallow ox-bow lakes. These give way to riverine forests and swamps, Miombo woodlands, open grasslands and acacia-clad hills, which together host a diverse ecosystem that includes noteworthy populations of Black Rhino, Lion, Cheetah, Masai Giraffe and African Buffalo. African Elephants thrive here in particular, and Selous, together with Mozambique’s Niassa National Reserve, hosts around 65,000 individuals that migrate between these two reserves along a ‘wildlife corridor’ of international significance. Selous is also home to one of Africa’s most important populations of African Wild Dog and is as good a place as any in which to search for these elusive pack hunters. Other game includes Sable Antelope, Lichtenstein’s Hartebeest, Greater Kudu, Eland and Blue Wildebeest amongst others. Over 350 bird species have also been recorded, amongst them such iconic species as Saddle-billed Stork, Pel’s Fishing Owl, Giant Kingfisher and Carmine Bee-eater. Boat safaris on the Rufiji River allow close encounters with Nile Crocodile and Hippo and are amongst the highlights of a visit here, as are the opportunities for walking safaris and ‘fly-camping’. Selous is best enjoyed in combination with Ruaha.

Ruaha is a superb national park and, in terms of predators, one of the best in Africa. However, it is generally overlooked by visitors, such is Tanzania’s great wealth of other more scenic, better known, and more accessible parks – a blessing for those that do venture here! Not only is Ruaha’s wildlife prolific, but it is possible to drive all day in the park without seeing another vehicle – a true luxury in this part of Africa! Lions are particularly abundant, with a number of relatively conspicuous prides. Here they prey mainly on the large herds of African Buffalo, in the absence of Wildebeest, but are even known to take both African Elephant and Masai Giraffe! Other predators include Cheetah, Leopard, African Wild Dog and both Spotted and Striped Hyena. These keep the ungulates such as Impala, Grant’s Gazelle, Eland, Roan, Sable Antelope and both Lesser and Greater Kudu constantly on the look-out. Birders will also delight in the avifauna of which over 450 species have been recorded in the park including the endemic Tanzanian (Ruaha) Red-billed Hornbill. Ruaha’s safari camps and lodges are mostly located in the northern Msembe/Mwagusi area from where the Ruaha River can be accessed and the largest concentrations of game are present. Of particular note, and of importance to our clients, is the exceptionally high quality of the resident wildlife guides in Ruaha. Often touted as a destination for safari conoisseurs, Ruaha in truth will suit anyone who appreciates outstanding wildlife in a location away from the crowds and who will enjoy the walking safaris, night-drives, ‘in-camp’ birding and traditional game drives which are all possible here.

The island of Zanzibar is encircled by swaying coconut palms and many small fishing villages whose fishermen still set sail in their elegant locally crafted dhows. Inland, spice plantations and lush forests dominate. But it is Zanzibar’s abundance of beautiful white sandy beaches and enticing turquoise seas, concealing coral reefs and colourful fish, that most entice the overseas visitor. The diving and snorkelling here are superb and provide an extra dimension to any wildlife holiday to Tanzania. Zanzibar’s historic main town, Stone Town, has been a trading post for exotic spices and other sought-after commodities for centuries and is worth a visit – although it is a rather hectic place by comparison with the tranquil beaches! A visit to the Jozani Forest Reserve is a good way to experience the best of the island’s coastal forests and mangroves, and a chance to see both Syke’s Monkey and the endemic Zanibar race of the rare Red Colobus monkey. There is a multitude of hotels to choose from on Zanzibar but some of our favourites include The Palms and Baraza, both of them exclusive beach hotels on the picturesque Bwejuu Beach. 

Pemba Island is in many respects a quieter and more relaxed version of neighbouring Zanzibar and sees far fewer visiting tourists. Its beaches are invariably deserted, there is plenty of excellent snorkelling and divers will be in their element as the Pemba Channel is renowned as one of the best dive locations in East Africa. The island is covered by coastal forest, swamps and mangroves and there are many hidden beaches and lagoons to explore. Pemba is still the world’s main supplier of cloves, meeting around 70% of global demand for this spice. The Manta Resort is one of Pemba’s most luxurious beach hotels with a superb beach location, while the Pemba Lodge is a simpler eco-lodge on a delightful stretch of beach.

To the south of Dar Es Salaam is the small beach location of Ras Kutani which can be reached either by car or via a short light aircraft flight onto a private air strip. The best hotel here is the blissful Ras Kutani which revels in secluded isolation with a simple but nevertheless luxurious feel. If all you want to do is lounge, enjoy long walks on the deserted beach, explore the coastal forest and get away from it all then this is the place to be after your safari!