Tailormade Holidays in Peru

The image of Machu Picchu is known the world over; however, little can prepare the first-time visitor to this ‘lost citadel of the Incas’. Whether you visit by train and spend the night at one of the comfortable mountain lodges, or take one of the more strenuous, but nonetheless magnificent, trekking options, Machu Picchu is a memory that remains etched in the minds of all those who have laid eyes on these iconic ancient ruins.

The Inca Trail

The ‘Inca Trail’ to Machu Picchu is undoubtedly one of the world’s great treks. The views of the snow-capped Andes and high cloudforest are stupendous, while walking from one beautiful ruin to the next is a mystical and unforgettable experience. The trek reaches a maximum elevation of 4,200 metres and the trail conditions are generally good, but a reasonable level of fitness and a sturdy pair of walking boots are essential. However, porters are provided to carry your luggage (except your daypack) and set up/strike camp, while cooks prepare all your meals. At each elevation along the trail there is a tremendous variety of birdlife on offer, enough to satisfy even the most avid birder.

The Salkantay Inca Trail

If you would like to reach Machu Picchu on foot, but would rather stay in comfortable mountain lodges along the way, then the Salkantay trek is the perfect option. The route is slightly different from the classic Inca Trail but the scenery is no less extraordinary, with highlights including the peak of Mount Salkantay, the Humantay Glacier, wonderful local farming communities and the added bonus of a less crowded trail. The lodges are marvellous and the prospect of a soothing hot bath or shower at the end of each day is a most heart-warming one!

Tambopata National Reserve, in south-eastern Peru, encompasses most of the drainage basin of the Tambopata River and is arguably the most pristine and biologically diverse rainforest in the world. An appreciation of the value of macaws as a magnet for eco-tourists contributed to the creation of Tambopata in the mid-1990s and, as a result, macaws have unwittingly become Peru’s rainforest ambassadors. The Tambopata clay-lick sees the daily morning arrival of hundreds of brightly coloured macaws including Scarlet, Blue-and-yellow, Red-and-green and Chestnut-fronted Macaws as well as many other species of parrots and parakeets – a truly dazzling spectacle that can be witnessed in the dry season from July to October. Several species of monkey are also possible in Tambopata, including Black Spider, Squirrel, Brown Capuchin, Dusky Titi and Red Howler Monkeys, and it is not uncommon to see one of the more elusive mammal species such as Brazilian Tapir or Jaguar. Over 500 bird species have been recorded, and Tambopata is noted for its specialist antbird flocks as well as a host of flycatchers, tanagers, woodpeckers, ovenbirds, barbets and motmots. Access is via a short flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado from where motorised canoes transport visitors on river transfers that often produce exciting wildlife sightings en route.

Manu National Park protects over 15,000 square kilometres of pristine habitat and holds an almost mythical status amongst naturalists. This huge wilderness region ranges from the Andean high páramo scrubland, to moss-festooned elfin forest and mist-enshrouded cloudforest, all the way down to subtropical and lowland rainforest. It is this broad range of habitats that provides Manu with such an incredible biodiversity, including over 1,000 species of birds, countless reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates, and an impressive range of mammals, amongst them Jaguar, Brazilian Tapir, Spectacled Bear, Giant River Otter and a long list of primates from Red Howler and Black Spider Monkeys to such tamarin species as Saddle-backed and Emperor. The cloudforests of the upper reaches of Manu are a birder’s paradise, while in the lowland rainforest there are several clay-licks where large numbers of birds, particularly macaws, and such mammals as Brazilian Tapir are drawn to the minerals and salts needed to supplement their diets. It is possible to fly into either Boca Manu from Cusco, to gain quick access to Manu’s remote and pristine lowland tropical rainforest. However, the exciting alternative is to travel overland by road from Cusco and then by boat in the lower reaches of the park – a journey best done with several overnight stops. This legendary route is known as the ‘Manu Road’.

The Pacaya Samiria Reserve safeguards a unique habitat of seasonally flooded or ‘Varzea’ forest in the north-east of Peru. The reserve is especially good for birding and an excellent place to see the rare Wattled Currasow. Explorations are mostly by boat, allowing access to virgin rainforest where waterbirds abound and include numerous kingfishers, herons, terns, skimmers, Pied Lapwings and Black-collared Hawks amongst many others. A number of notable mammals such as the curious Night Monkey and intriguing Three-toed Sloth are also regularly seen here and a visit to one of the peaceful ox-bow lakes should reveal the marvellous Giant Waterlily (Victoria amazonica) and the prehistoric-looking Hoatzin, a bird that frequents these tranquil bodies of water. Pacaya Samiria is accessed by boat from the gateway town of Iquitos and these scenic river journeys also present excellent opportunities for seeing both Pink and Grey River Dolphins.

The Chaparri Ecological Reserve is a private community-owned reserve in the dry forests of the Tumbesian region. It is one of the best places in Peru to see Spectacled Bear and, should a wild bear elude you, a visit to the nearby Spectacled Bear rehabilitation project is worthwhile. Another highlight is the critically endangered White-winged Guan which is now thriving under the protection of the local community. The reserve is also home to such other avian specialities as Tumbes Tyrant, Rufous Flycatcher, Elegant Crescent-chest and Sulphur-throated Finch as well as the more widespread (but spectacular) Andean Condor and King Vulture. Days here often begin with the spectacle of numerous hummingbird species bathing in the stream. Chaparri is accessed from Lima via the coastal town of Chiclayo which, for birders, offers the chance to see one of South America’s most exciting waders, the Tawny-throated Dotterel. Further to the north are the dramatic Marañón Canyon and the pre-Inca pyramids at Pomac which can easily be combined with Chaparri to diversify time spent in the area.

The Ballestas Islands form part of the larger Reserva National de Paracas, the most important wildlife sanctuary on the Peruvian coast and, conveniently, within easy driving distance of Lima, Peru’s capital. Visitors are treated to vast numbers of seabirds, including Humboldt Penguins, both Guanay and Red-legged Cormorants, Chilean Skuas, Peruvian Terns and elegant Inca Terns. There is also a large colony of Southern Sea Lions, which helps lend a feel of a ‘mini-Galápagos’ to the islands. A visit to the Ballestas Islands can be combined with a flight over the Nazca Lines, the huge and mysterious animal-shaped and geometric designs, dating from between 900 BC and 600 AD, that are found in the desert here. These can only be fully appreciated from the air, their origins and purpose remaining a mystery to this day.

Perched at an altitude of over 3,300 metres, Cusco was once the ancient centre of the Incas and today attracts visitors who come to experience an age-old culture and a city steeped in history, tradition and legend. It is the continent’s oldest continually inhabited city with immensely impressive Inca-built stone walls. The streets are often stepped and narrow, and are thronged with Quechua-speaking descendants of the Incas; to simply wander around is an experience in itself. The Inca ruins of Qorikancha (the Golden Courtyard) are a highlight and, in their day, this construction was covered in hundreds of sheets of solid gold. Nowadays there are plenty of restaurants and shops in Cusco, many of which surround the magnificent central plaza, and there is also a choice of excellent restaurants, many specialising in clay oven-fired pizza and spit-roasted chicken – perfect for energy building before embarking on an excursion to Machu Picchu!

Lake Titicaca lies at an altitude of 3,800 metres and straddles Peru’s border with Bolivia. Surrounded by glistening Andean peaks that frame its deep blue waters, it is one of the most spectacular settings in Peru. The surrounding settlements are the most visible sign of an intriguing living culture that dates back to pre-Inca times and provides visitors with a glimpse of the past. The town of Puno makes a particularly good base and is a great place to explore; here the pre-Inca stone burial towers of Sillustani and the Yavari, plus a Victorian steamship that was originally imported in pieces to the lake on the backs of mules, are the highlights. From Puno it is possible to sail to the famed ‘floating’ Uros Islands, made from the Tortora reeds that grow beside the lake. These reeds are also used to construct the reed boats that have for centuries provided the locals with a means of lake transport. The real islands of Taquile and Amantani are also worth a visit and they are good places to learn about the terraced farming methods here and the production of the colourful textiles worn by the locals.

The Amazon needs no introduction. The largest and best-known tropical rainforest of all, which covers an astonishing five and a half million square kilometres of northern South America, harbours by far the greatest concentrations of biodiversity on Earth. Representing more than half of the planet’s remaining tropical rainforests, the Amazon supports a riotous abundance and variety of life that defies almost all description. Its dark, tangled jungles contain an estimated 390 billion individual trees of over 16,000 species, more than 1,100 of which have been recorded in a single quarter square kilometre; the UK has fewer than 100 native trees in total. Living amongst them are approximately 400 species each of mammal, reptile and amphibian, along with more than 2,000 fish and 1,300 birds. The diversity of some groups is so overwhelming that we may never fully understand it – the number of insect species, for example, could reach well into the millions. All in all, some 10% of Earth’s known species can be found in the Amazon. Remarkably, this extraordinary profusion of life is largely fertilised by phosphorous-rich dust from the Sahara Desert in Africa, 30 million tons of which are carried to the forest each year by transatlantic winds.

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