Tailormade Holidays in Cambodia

The most famous part of Cambodia is the Siem Reap area, which includes Angkor Wat itself. However, many people don’t realise that just to the north of the temple complex is south-east Asia’s largest freshwater lake. The flooded woodland of Prek Toal hosts one of the most important colonies of waterbirds in south-east Asia, with 100,000 pairs of storks, herons, egrets, ibises and pelicans, including rarities such as Spot-billed Pelican and Milky Stork. A boat trip here offers the opportunity to get close to the birds and is perfect for photography. Not far away is Ang Trapeang Thmor, a complex of wet grassland and rice paddies where the fast-declining Sarus Crane, the tallest bird in Asia, breeds, along with a host of other exciting birds and the critically endangered Eld’s Deer. Angkor Wat itself is also set within an area of disturbed dry forest with permanent watercourses (‘barays’ or moats) and is surprisingly good for birding. Arriving at Angkor Wat for first light to enjoy the temples and birds in the morning air is an experience not easily forgotten. Forest Wagtail and Hainan Blue Flycatcher are just two of the avian delights one might encounter here. Not far away, the Bayon Temple in Angkor Thom, the last capital city of the Angkor Empire, is also profoundly impressive, as is the delightful Ta Prohm Temple nestled amidst tangled tree roots. All these places are easily accessible in a relatively small area, with comfortable hotel accommodation in Siem Reap itself.

The village of Tmatboey is on Cambodia’s northern plains and basks in a rich ecosystem encompassing seasonal grasslands, open woodland and deciduous dipterocarp woodland (the signature forests of the region). This extraordinary area is home to a remarkable conservation project aimed at helping two great rarities, the Giant Ibis and the White-shouldered Ibis. We stay at the community eco-lodge established by the Ministry of Environment, a unique project aimed at linking wildlife tourism, conservation and development. Nearby, the natural grasslands provide habitat for the critically endangered Bengal Florican.

Cambodia is one of the few countries with stable populations of Asia’s three critically endangered vultures; the Red-headed, White-rumped and Slender-billed. The premier cause of the decline, a drug that was administered to sick cattle but which kills vultures, has never been used here. To keep the birds from straying to other countries, the Wildlife Conservation Society has set up ‘vulture restaurants’ for supplementary feeding and research, and the one at Boeng Toal may attract 60-70 birds at dawn, as well as Golden Jackals, Dholes and Greater Adjutant Storks. The carcass is funded by visitors, thereby contributing to the local economy. Accommodation is in a nearby camp.

This reserve lies in the Eastern Plains, the largest intact block of forest in the whole of south-east Asia; a wonderful mixture of dipterocarp woodland, evergreen forest and bamboo. The biodiversity here is incredible, with more than 300 bird species recorded, and nearly 100 mammals. Among the latter, the reserve plays host to an internationally important population of Asian Elephants; although, despite their size, it can take quite an effort to see them. There are also some wonderful primates, including the rare Black-shanked Douc Langur and Yellow-cheeked Crested Gibbon. Birds abound here, and the reserve hosts one of the highest concentrations of woodpeckers in the world, with 16 species recorded including Great Slaty (the largest of all woodpeckers), White-bellied and Heart-spotted. Other birds of note include Germain’s Peacock Pheasant, Green Peafowl, Siamese Fireback, Great Hornbill, Orange-necked Partridge and the stunning Bar-bellied Pitta. This is one of the last remaining wilderness areas in the country.