Tailormade Borneo

The Danum Valley Conservation Area covers 438 square kilometres of predominantly lowland dipterocarp rainforest and is one of only two substantial areas of protected primary rainforest remaining in Sabah. The forest can be explored via a good network of trails, an incredible 300-metre long canopy walkway and, after dark, through spotlighting safaris in search of such nocturnal mammals as Red Giant Flying Squirrel, Flying Lemur (Colugo), Temminck’s Flying Squirrel and occasionally Slow Loris and Western Tarsier. Marbled, Leopard and Flat-headed Cats are also occasionally seen on night drives. During the day there’s always a good chance of encountering an Orang-utan or Bornean Gibbon, but the more elusive denizens of the forest such as Sumatran Rhinoceros and Malay Sun Bear are very rarely seen. The Danum Valley is also outstanding for birds, being home to eight species of hornbill, of which the huge Rhinoceros Hornbill can be seen almost daily. Other specialities include the Great Argus and Crested Fireback Pheasants, Black-headed and Blue-headed Pittas, Bornean Bristlehead, Bornean and Black-throated Wren-babblers, Great-billed Heron, Wallace’s and Blyth’s Hawk-eagles, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Great Slaty and Olive-backed Woodpeckers, Whiskered Treeswift and Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher.

Tabin Wildlife Reserve consists of mature secondary and primary lowland rainforest and is first and foremost a wonderful birding location. Forays into the forest are made on foot and it’s possible to see 70 or 80 species in a day, among them Brown Wood Owl, White-fronted Falconet, Blue-banded Kingfisher, Large Green, Thick-billed and Little Green Pigeons, Great Slaty, Crimson-winged and Olive-backed Woodpeckers, plus a range of leafbirds, hornbills, malkohas and trogons. Time spent at the local ‘mud volcano’ can reveal some of the forest’s larger inhabitants such as Pygmy Elephant, Orang-utan and Bornean Gibbon. Spotlighting at Tabin can also be very productive with Malay, Island Palm and Striped Civets frequently seen along with Leopard Cat and Slow Loris.

The floodplain of the Kinabatangan River is a low-lying wilderness of muddy rivers, dense rainforest, serene ox-bow lakes and towering limestone outcrops. Wild Orang-utans are often encountered during boat safaris as are Pygmy (Asian) Elephants and the bizarre Proboscis Monkey for which the area is renowned. The birdlife is outstanding and the river’s meandering course allows clean lines of sight with highlights including Storm’s Stork (this is one of the most reliable sites for this endangered species anywhere), Chestnut-necklaced Partridge, Bornean Ground Cuckoo, Hooded, Black-headed and Giant Pittas, Diard’s Trogon, Moustached Hawk-cuckoo, Wallace’s Hawk-eagle, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Lesser Fish Eagle, Bat Hawk, Buffy Fish Owl, Whiskered Treeswift, up to four species of malkoha, and eight species of hornbill. The nearby Gomantong Caves penetrate deep inside two huge limestone outcrops and an excursion here to search for the wildlife of the surrounding forest and then watch the exodus of millions of bats as they try to evade the waiting Bat Hawks and Peregrines is most certainly recommended. If your visit is so timed, there is also the chance to observe the remarkable sight of the local people ascending to the roofs of the caves on their precarious rope and bamboo ladders to collect swiftlet nests (sustainably) for ‘bird’s-nest soup’!

The Deramakot Forest Reserve is fast becoming one of the most exciting destinations in which to see south-east Asia’s most sought-after mammals, including the Sunda Clouded Leopard. Until very recently, accommodation in the Deramakot Reserve has been extremely limited and so the area has remained well off the tourist trail. The fact that visitors are free to roam unrestricted (as there are so few of them!) is perhaps why the reserve offers such wonderful rare mammal sightings. Other exciting mammals to be found at Deramakot include Sun Bear, Binturong, Bornean Pygmy Elephant, Marbled Cat, Otter Civet, Banteng and Sunda Skunk. Spotlighting and nocturnal drives offer the best chances for mammals at Deramakot, and visitors prepared to be out around the clock are likely to be rewarded the most highly.

At 4,101 metres (13,455 feet) Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain between the eastern Himalaya and New Guinea and its forested slopes hold a rich diversity of montane and submontane fauna and flora. It also attracts many visitors wishing to trek to the summit to witness the spectacular sunrise over the surrounding lush Bornean hills. Accommodation is available near the park’s headquarters from where an excellent network of trails radiates out into the cool and refreshing montane evergreen forest. The scenery is spectacular and you are sure to see a wealth of species amongst mixed feeding flocks that work the forests, and perhaps some of the specialities which include Crimson-headed Partridge, Temminck’s Babbler, Black-breasted Fruit-hunter, Eyebrowed Jungle Flycatcher, Bornean Stubtail and, of course, the legendary trio: Whitehead’s Trogon, Whitehead’s Broadbill and Whitehead’s Spiderhunter. Also found in the area is the Rafflesia plant, which boasts the largest flower in the world. After a long day on the trails, a stop at the nearby Poring Hot Springs is a great way to relax.

There are a number of world-class snorkelling and diving locations dotted around the reef-fringed coast of Borneo. The coastal eco-resorts of Gayana and Bunga Raya on Gaya Island, near Kota Kinabalu, are peaceful places to relax, snorkel and enjoy a little birding in the surrounding forests. Since most international flights depart from Kota Kinabalu (15 minutes away), they are ideally situated for a final few days of down time.

The Sepilok Orang-utan Sanctuary is home to the Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre and is an integral stop on nearly all Borneo itineraries. A short drive from Sandakan, the centre arranges twice daily feeding sessions for semi-rehabilitated Orang-utans living in the surrounding forests that make their way back to the centre for the free meals on offer. While there you will learn about the plight of the Orang-utan and the valuable conservation work carried out to rehabilitate these endearing great apes ready for life back in the wild. The surrounding forest also supports a number of interesting birds including the spectacular Black-and-red Broadbill, Scarlet-rumped Trogon, the endemic Bornean Bristlehead and various species of barbet, sunbird, flycatcher and spiderhunter.

The city of Kuching, located on the Sarawak River in the far west of Borneo, is a lovely mix of old colonial buildings, riverside promenades, Chinese temples, Islamic mosques and bustling local markets. Both the Fort Margherita and the stately Istana Palace are worth a visit, while the Sarawak Museum is the pick of the city’s sites. Bako National Park, a coastal forest reserve, is a full day’s excursion from Kuching, with good birding and excellent Proboscis Monkey sightings possible. Looking further afield from Kuching, the surrounding region of Sarawak is famed for its Iban tribal culture and particularly the headhunting traditions of a bygone era. It’s possible to spend a night in a traditional longhouse or, if you want more comfort, the Hilton has a lakeside ‘Longhouse Resort’ in Batang Ai where you take long-tail boat excursions across the lake to the nearby local villages. Here visitors can shoot a blowpipe and learn something of the residents’ ancient cultural heritage.