Wild Asturias - Realm of the Bear

The Brown Bear is a rare and endangered species in Spain today. Just 130 animals remain, split between two isolated populations at either end of the Cordillera Cantábrica. Here they dwell in the wildest regions, high in the steepest and most wooded parts of this spectacular — but little-visited — mountain range. The majority of the Bears, about 100, are to be found in the western population, 20 of them in the deep valleys and rugged terrain of Somiedo Natural Park. Established as recently as 1988 (and declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2000), this 29,164-hectare park protects some of the highest and most scenic peaks and valleys of the region; a most pleasant mix of dramatic and craggy limestone peaks and cliffs, upland lakes, fast-flowing streams and rivers, magnificent oak and Beech forests, ancient stone-walled upland pastures and high alpine meadows, regarded as the best-preserved montane environment in the Iberian peninsula. In particular, this rich and varied tapestry of habitats not only suits the omnivorous Bear, but also supports a very large population of Chamois, Roe Deer and Red Deer, the prey of at least four packs of Wolves that roam elusively through the rugged regions of the park. We would, of course, be extremely lucky to see a Bear or a Wolf, but we will look hard for them nonetheless as we pursue our main focus — the region's birdlife, flora, butterflies and other mammals — during our daily walks in these mountains.

It is the human presence, however, that makes this region so very special. As if the wonderful Asturian architecture of the stone and clay-tiled villages of Somiedo's valleys — each dwelling with its separate, classically Asturian, stilted storehouse — were not enough, here the resident farmers continue to practise an age-old pastoralist lifestyle, maintaining their traditional and unique brañas. These are seasonal ‘villages’ of ancient stone and thatch huts, set in the high pastures, from which the cow-herders manage their herds of distinctive red Asturian cows each spring, summer and autumn. The region is also the land of the vaqueiros, a community of pastoralists from the coast who, for centuries, have seasonally driven (more often in a truck these days than on foot, as in the past!) their cattle between winter pastures on the coast and the high pastures in Somiedo's mountains where they spend each summer living in traditional seasonal vaqueiro villages and hold colourful biannual livestock fairs.

We have chosen to visit in early July since this is the season during which the Bears venture out into the pastures to ‘graze’ on the spring grass before they retreat into the forests to feed on fruit, nuts and other forest produce. It is also, of course, the best time of year for settled weather, birds and for flowers. Amongst the birds, an important though declining population of Capercaillie is protected here. Resident birds of prey include Golden Eagle, Goshawk, Peregrine and Griffon Vulture and these are joined in summer by good numbers of Black Kites, Short-toed Eagles, Honey Buzzards and Egyptian Vultures. Crag Martins, Rock Thrushes, Rock and Ortolan Buntings, and both Red-billed and Alpine Choughs frequent the high meadows. Red-backed Shrikes, Subalpine and Melodious Warblers, Cirl Buntings and Rock Sparrows may be found at lower levels, whilst Black Woodpeckers call from the Beech forests and Crested Tits and Crossbills may be heard amongst the coniferous woodlands.

Some 1,125 vascular plant species occur in Somiedo, and these include such regional endemics as Centaurea janeri ssp. babiana, Armeria bigerrensis ssp. legionensis, Saxifraga babiana and, most notably, the very rare Somiedo Centaury (Centaurium somedanum). However, it is likely to be the sheer abundance of flowers along the wayside and in the hay meadows and alpine pastures, and the butterfly and insect-life it supports, that affords us greatest pleasure at this season.

To best enjoy the natural history of these mountains, we will be based for the week in one of the larger villages of Somiedo and will spend each day on foot, enjoying a programme of gentle-paced day walks which we traditionally break with a delicious ‘al fresco’ picnic. In order to stand a chance of seeing a Bear, however, or even a Wolf, we must also put in long (but optional) hours of patient scanning from one spot, probably during the early mornings and late evenings. But, whatever we see on this holiday, it is the simple magic of this rich, scenic and timeless region, lying in a forgotten corner of rural Spain, that is likely to leave us with our most lasting and delightful memories.