Whales & Dolphins of Monterey Bay

Northern California has provided the setting for so many films and novels that its landscape seems strangely familiar. Images of the mist-shrouded Golden Gate Bridge and the undulating streets of San Francisco are part of contemporary culture, yet there is an abundance of surprises to discover as we focus, during this holiday, on the natural history attractions of the coastline which many regard as the most picturesque in the United States. The California coast is renowned for its rich marine-life, particularly the wide variety of marine mammals, and there is no better location to search for these creatures than Monterey Bay, which offers some of the best whale and dolphin-watching in North America. During the summer and early autumn good numbers of Humpback Whales are found in the Bay, along with various other species of cetacean including regular appearances by Blue Whales, the largest mammal in the world. Always nomadic and unpredictable these enormous whales are nevertheless a regular visitor to the deeper waters of Monterey Bay and sightings will be an exciting possibility on every pelagic trip in August and September. Closer to shore, we will be looking along the coastline for a variety of residents including the entertaining Sea Otter, California Sea Lions, Harbour Seals and, at one location, the rare Northern Elephant Seal.

Our base for this single-centre holiday is the delightful Carmel Valley, which is just a short drive from Monterey. It is known for its sunny, fog-free days, comfortable nights and warm ambience. Our family-run hotel is set amongst attractive gardens and we will venture out from here each day, for at least four half-day excursions during our stay, enjoying the use of a specially adapted whale-watching vessel. These rich waters are protected within the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, the largest marine sanctuary in the United States, in which nearly 30 different species of cetacean have been recorded. It is the nature of these cruises that some will be far more productive than others, but the large whales are regularly sighted during August and September, and these trips also offer the chance to observe an exciting variety of seabirds, including such species as Black-footed Albatross, Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters, Ashy Storm Petrel, Sabine’s Gull, skuas, and both Cassin’s and Rhinoceros Auklet.

During the holiday we will also have the opportunity to spend time in search of seals, sea lions and Sea Otters. The latter, a delightful species, may be found in favoured bays, sometimes floating above beds of kelp whilst munching on Abalones. As a result of over-hunting for the fur trade, Sea Otters were almost extinct in California at the beginning of the 20th century but, in 1935, a small population of 94 was discovered and, with strict protection, this entertaining creature has gradually increased, each year witnessing the colonisation of a new stretch of coast.

The birdlife of coastal California is excitingly different from that found in inland areas of the state. Brown Pelicans and Brandt’s and Pelagic Cormorants are widespread along the coast, reflecting the abundance of fish in these waters, and, as we stop at various points along the coastline, we are also likely to see a variety of grebes, auks and sea-ducks. Rocky bays and sandy beaches, flanked by lines of Monterey Pines, are frequented by Heermann’s, Western and California Gulls, Black Turnstones, Surfbirds, Willets, Marbled Godwits, Wandering Tattlers and Black Oystercatchers, whilst passerine species may include Bushtit, Tri-coloured Blackbird and Brewer’s Blackbird. Our programme will be somewhat flexible but will include visits to the Carmel Valley, where Yellow-billed Magpie is one of the attractions, as well as Cannery Row, Fisherman’s Wharf and Moss Landing.

On one of the tour days we will follow the breathtakingly scenic Big Sur highway to the south where, in contrast to the previous days, we will switch our attention from the ocean to the trees and bushes of Andrew Molera State Park where large numbers of migrant landbirds can be found in favourable conditions. Nearby is the centre of the California Condor reintroduction scheme and, if we are fortunate, we may see one or two of these impressive but critically endangered birds soaring over the hillsides. Later in the day we have a further treat as we stop at a vantage-point to observe Northern Elephant Seals on one of their favourite beaches.

All too soon our stay in California will come to an end and we return to San Francisco to catch a flight back to Europe. Observing great whales at close quarters is a very special privilege and we are sure that many tour members will return from Monterey planning their next whale-watching holiday!