Picos and Plains - The Best of Northern Spain

Northern Spain has a very great deal to offer the naturalist. The dramatic limestone peaks of the Picos de Europa in the heart of the Cantabrian Mountains are justly famous for their scenery and birds. Less well known, but only a relatively short distance to the south, are the wide open plains of the upper Duero Valley, which offer a striking scenic contrast to the mountains and some very different but equally exciting birds. Add to this a sea crossing that provides some of the best seabird and whale-watching possibilities that Europe has to offer and you have the makings of a very memorable trip indeed.

Our holiday starts with a ferry crossing from the south coast to Santander, a journey which at this time of year can produce sightings of an exciting range of whale and dolphin species. The ship is large and stable and provides a good vantage-point for scanning the sea ahead for that tell-tale fin or that column of spray, as one of these impressive creatures surfaces momentarily and ‘blows’. The ship crosses the continental shelf during the night and the morning will find us in the southern Bay of Biscay, a particularly rich feeding ground for whales. Here we have a chance of encountering such exciting species as Fin, Sei, Minke, Killer and Long-finned Pilot Whales, and Bottlenose, Common, Striped and Risso’s Dolphins. Seabirds are very likely to be in evidence too, and at this time of year we have a good chance of seeing Balearic, Sooty, Cory’s and Great Shearwaters, up to four species of skua, Sabine’s Gull, Grey Phalarope and petrels that may even include Wilson’s.

Once in Santander, we will make the short journey inland to Espinama in the heart of the Picos de Europa mountains. From our pleasant hotel here we are well positioned to explore the best that this remarkably unspoilt region has to offer. Amongst the high limestone crags and screes, reached by a short but spectacular journey on the Fuente Dé cable car, we will search for a range of high mountain specialists. Alpine Choughs, Water Pipits, Alpine Accentors, Crag Martins and the attractive Chamois are all common here and, with luck, we will find Snowfinch, Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting and even Wallcreeper. Raptors are a conspicuous feature of the Picos and, amongst the Griffon Vultures which are so often to be seen cruising effortlessly along the skyline, we must keep an eye open for Egyptian Vultures, Golden and Short-toed Eagles and Peregrine Falcons.

Lower down, in the valleys, we will discover a very different landscape. Here there are mixed woodlands, tumbling streams, flower-filled meadows, orchards and quiet, timeless villages. Amongst them we will look out for Black and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, Woodlark, Dipper, Short-toed Treecreeper, Firecrest, Bonelli’s Warbler, Red-backed Shrike and Cirl Bunting. Overhead we could see Booted Eagle, Red Kite, Honey Buzzard or Goshawk, whilst at our feet the meadows dazzle us with their flowers and a range of butterflies that may include Scarce Swallowtail, Cleopatra and the strange Black Satyr.

After our time in the Picos we will head south-west towards Zamora. In the course of an easy but remarkable morning’s drive which takes us over a couple of passes and through a series of picturesque valleys, we will descend from high mountains onto the wide open rolling vastness of the Duero plains. Here, in accordance with European Union directives, a large area of the plains is being farmed in a manner sympathetic to a range of sensitive and declining grassland bird species. The result is one of the largest concentrations of Great Bustards in the world, together with good populations of Little Bustard, Stone Curlew, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Montagu’s Harrier, Lesser Kestrel and Calandra Lark. With luck we will see all of these during our visit.

After this contrasting feast of scenery and birds in two rather forgotten parts of Spain, we will have to return to Santander. Counting the Mediterranean Gulls as we leave the harbour, we can look forward to more whales, dolphins, shearwaters and skuas as we once again cross the continental shelf out in the Bay of Biscay. Whatever we see, it is likely to be a fitting finale to a satisfying and memorable holiday.