Crete in Spring

Crete is the largest of the Greek Islands, being 258 kilometres long and 56 kilometres wide. To its south, across the Libyan Sea, lie the shores of North Africa; to the north lie the islands of the Cyclades and Dodecanese. Crete itself is dominated by four mountain chains which are largely limestone in content and stretch, like the backbone of a great sea monster, from its eastern to its western shores, rising at their highest point to 2,450 metres. From these heights, clear mountain streams empty into the Aegean Sea to the north. To the south the streams have cut deep gorges before entering the Libyan Sea, and many dry out under the intense heat of the summer sun.

Crete’s northern coast has been cultivated for thousands of years. Here, olives, grapes, melons, peaches, oranges and cereals are grown, and the ubiquitous sheep and goats are still pastured as in Biblical times. The island’s climate, position, and variety of both altitude and terrain have created its outstanding — indeed world-renowned — flora. Not only are there over 1,600 species of flowering plant, of which at least 139 are endemic, but the display of colour along each roadside verge is breathtaking. The intense reds of poppies; the delicate pink of Silene colorata blending so well with the pale purple of Sea Stock; the red, yellow and white of Ranunculus asiaticus; the pink of gladioli in the fields, and everywhere the pale yellow of Crown Daisies make Crete a most colourful island in spring.

Our visit to Crete will also coincide with the northward migration of birds visiting Europe for the summer. Greek islands are their stepping stones, and indeed the final destination of many of the most colourful species. We will watch for herons and birds of prey as they fly in off the sea, for ‘falls’ of passerine migrants in coastal maquis and olive groves, and for waders feeding in the tiny marshy fields. At this season the coastal scrub can hold Icterine, Subalpine, Eastern Bonelli’s and Olivaceous Warblers, Collared and Pied Flycatchers, and Black-eared and Isabelline Wheatears. Overhead, Swifts and Bee-eaters hawk for insects. Crete also has its own eastern Mediterranean specialities; amongst them, the elegant Rüppell’s Warbler, and the Eleonora’s Falcon which can be seen flying at dusk along most shorelines in late spring. In the mountains, a good population of Griffon Vultures can be found, together with the rarer Bonelli’s and Golden Eagles, and Lammergeier.

With the recurring theme of occupation followed by heroic battles for liberation, Crete’s history is unusually rich, and we do not plan to ignore it. The Romans, Venetians, Turks and Nazis have all tried to suppress these quiet, cheerful people. All have failed, leaving only the relics of their occupation behind them. Most fascinating of all Crete’s settlers were the fun-loving Minoans, the remains of whose palaces and villages lie scattered throughout the island.

During our 8-day stay we will be based for the first four days in the picturesque seaside town of Plakias on the south coast. This will allow us the opportunity to explore the dramatic gorges of Imbros, Kotsiphos and Kourtilotiki and the hills around the little town of Spili, famous for its orchids, tulips and other wonderful flora. Other explorations will include the Minoan Palace of Phaestos which, with its view of plain and mountain, has the most awe-inspiring location of all Minoan sites. It also provides an excellent hilltop bird migration viewpoint and flower-rich slopes with possible Monkey Orchid and Eastern Serapias. We will visit the Late Minoan Cemetery at Armeni with its cool Valonia Oak woodland and the atmospheric monastery at Moni Prevelli. From there we will explore the back roads of the verdant Amari Valley, famous for its apple, cherry and almond orchards, and Byzantine churches.

Western Crete is perhaps less well known, but is greener than the east and has some dramatic scenery. On one day we will head to the top of the spectacular Samaria Gorge, where we will keep our eyes skyward for Lammergeier, but walking on the Omalos Plateau we shall be torn between birds and the amazing display of iris, tulips and anemones. We return to Chania via the reed-fringed reservoir at Ayia to look for Great Reed Warblers and Little Crake. On another day we will visit the peaceful Akrotiri Peninsula and spend time searching the extensive olive groves around the monastery of Agia Triada for migrant flycatchers, warblers and Golden Orioles. By now under the island’s spell, we must return to London, well satisfied with the colour, history and natural history of Crete.