Birding in Cuba

Cuba lies just 144 kilometres (90 miles) off the southern coast of Florida, but it could not be more different from its more affluent neighbour, not least in its communist ideology, which has shaped the nation's way of life for over 40 years. It is, however, a vibrant, relaxed and welcoming island, blessed with dramatic landscapes, a rich suite of habitats and encircled by the warm, turquoise blue waters of the Caribbean Sea.

Cuba's birdlife is also starkly different from its surrounding friends... and foes! It is home to an impressive tally of around 28 endemic species (the exact number is disputed), including its most famous avian inhabitant, the record-breaking Bee Hummingbird, the smallest bird in the world! Apart from the endemics, Cuba's bird list contains an impressive range of Caribbean specialities — including several rarities — and the island is an important refuelling and resting stop for an exciting range of North American summer migrants which, fortunately, do not have to abide by any US travel restrictions! At the time of our visit in late February/early March, many of the 'New World' warblers passing through will be in their colourful breeding dress.

Our holiday begins with a flight to Havana, where we stay a little to the west in Soroa for two nights. From here we visit the tranquil montane forests and limestone caves of La Guira National Park, once the hideout of the famous revolutionary Che Guevara. The reserve is also a haven for a variety of birds, including several difficult-to-see species, among them Olive-capped and Yellow-headed Warblers, the latter endemic, as well as more widespread endemics such as the Cuban Trogon, Cuban Solitaire and the dazzling Cuban Tody, one of five species in the tody family, all of which are restricted to the Caribbean islands.

We next head east towards the Zapata Peninsula, Cuba's most celebrated birding region and our base for the next three nights. In addition to the famous swamp, the peninsula is clothed in dry and tropical forests and edged by mangrove, sandy beaches and sections of rocky, wave-pounded coast. It is here that we hope to see the Bee Hummingbird, a tiny jewel of a bird that looks more like a feathered insect as it zips around the flowers for nectar. The endemic Cuban Emerald occurs here too.

Another of the region's 'star birds' is the Zapata Wren, which is fiendishly difficult to find and usually requires a 'stomp through a swamp' to locate! The trio of quail-doves are easier to track down: the endemic Blue-headed and Grey-fronted Quail-doves and the Key West Quail-dove, which is not endemic but, despite its name. does not occur in the Florida Keys! Other sought-after species include the beautiful endemic Fernandina's Flicker, Cuban Green Woodpecker, Cuban Oriole and, if fortunate, the widespread but universally elusive Stygian Owl.

Moving further east into the mountains of the interior, we will spend one night at Camagüey in the Sierra de Chorillos. This is another endemic hotspot, home to multiple birds with the epithet 'Cuban', such as Cuban Pygmy-owl, Cuban Parrot, Cuban Palm Crow and Cuban Parakeet. A curious rarity that we will look for here is the Giant Kingbird, which is the largest among a group of fly-catching birds famous for their bold and aggressive behaviour (hence their scientific name 'Tyrannus').

The island of Cayo Coco will be our base for the following three nights, although en route we will stop in the Sierra de Cubitas. Here, amongst the Caribbean evergreen gallery forest, we will search for endemics such as Cuban Bullfinch, Oriente Warbler, Western Spindalis and, if fortunate, perhaps the rare Cuban Gnatcatcher and Gundlach's Hawk. Cayo Coco itself sits off Cuba's north coast and is edged by mudflats and mangroves, home to American Flamingoes, Wood Stork, Roseate Spoonbills and a variety of herons, including the hyper-energetic Reddish Egret. Magnificent Frigatebirds soar menacingly overhead, whilst Brown Pelicans are common. We should also find an interesting variety of waders during our stay here, including Short-billed Dowitcher and Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs. Endemics to look out for include Cuban Vireo, Cuban Nightjar and Cuban Grassquit. The more widespread Mangrove Cuckoo is quite easy to see, and this is the only place in Cuba to find Thick-billed Vireo. Migrant passerines may include Cap May, Palm and Black-throated Blue Warblers.

Finally, we must head back west to Cuba's vibrant and colourful capital, Havana, where we will enjoy a city tour before returning back to the airport for our flight home.