Mongolia's Snow Leopards

In the far west of Mongolia, the Altai and Margaz Mountains represent some of the very few true wildernesses left on Earth. In these remote foothills, rarely visited by tourists, we can find a remarkable assemblage of birds and mammals. Spending our days amidst the stunning scenery of the characteristic deep valleys and higher mountainous peaks and the nearby semi-desert, we hope to find many of the region’s notable mammals, including Pallas’s Cat, Saiga Antelope, Przewalski’s Horse, Mongolian Gazelle, and Siberian Ibex, not to mention a fabulous cast of Asian bird specialities including Mongolian Ground-jay, Altai Snowcock, Güldenstãdt’s Redstart and Pallas’s Sandgrouse.

Arriving in Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar, we will transfer to a comfortable hotel on the outskirts of the city for our first night in this fascinating country. Lying at an elevation of 1,300 metres and with a population of over 1.6 million, Ulaanbaatar is home to almost half of Mongolia’s entire population. Whilst there is little to keep us entertained on the busy and congested streets of the capital, on the outskirts of the city, along the Tuul River and its adjacent wetlands, we can look for the first of many exotic species of birds, including White-crowned Penduline Tit, Azure Tit, White-cheeked Starling, Yellow-breasted Bunting and Long-tailed Rosefinch.

The following morning, we will fly west to the city of Khovd, from where we travel overland to the beautiful Altai Mountains for a 5-night stay in a remote ‘ger camp' where we stay in comfortable, twin-bedded, traditional round tents. With an estimated 30 to 35 Snow Leopards in the surrounding mountains, the next four days will be dedicated to exploring the rocky valleys and higher elevations (to a maximum 3,300 metres) in search of the elusive ‘Ghost of the Mountains’, using 4-wheel drive vehicles to access the more challenging areas.

Our stay in the Altai Mountains is timed to coincide with the period when Snow Leopard cubs are usually beginning to venture out from their dens to play and practise their hunting skills. With the cubs growing fast, the adult females will be hard pushed to provide them with enough food and so will need to spend a large amount of their time hunting on the open slopes. Through many years of observing and protecting these cats, the local trackers have built up an understanding of their movements and know the locations of several den sites that have been used in the past. Although sightings are still far from guaranteed, this local knowledge will give us an excellent chance of seeing our target mammal, and we will spend a great deal of time scanning from specific observation sites to give us the best of chance of success … without, of course, in any way disturbing the cats or compromising their welfare.

Leaving this magical place behind, we will set out for an early morning transfer to the Khomyn Tal National Park. This is a remote protected area renowned as one of the most successful reintroduction sites for the Przewalski’s Horse (Takhi) – the last truly wild horse living in its native habitat. Thanks to careful management, around 150 wild horses now roam freely across this sweeping landscape of panoramic steppes and undulating dunes.

After a night in Khomyn Tal National Park, we enjoy a final morning in the park before heading to our next camp in the Margaz Mountains. Here, one of our main aims will be to find the charismatic Pallas’s Cat, or Manul as it is known in Mongolia. This site is known for its fairly reliable sightings of this very distinctive and unusual cat. Whilst scanning the rocky outcrops and open valleys of Margaz, we may again have the chance to see Snow Leopards, although they are much more elusive in these summer months. These mountains are also home to Grey Wolves and Eurasian Lynx, though the latter must be thought of as a huge bonus.

Leaving the Margaz Mountains, we will travel north-west towards Ulaangom, passing along the shores of Uvs Lake – Mongolia’s largest saline lake and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The lake’s vast open waters, reedbeds, and surrounding steppe provide critical habitat for shorebirds, including a newly discovered breeding colony of Relict Gulls.

Sadly, it is time to return to the capital, where we will stay overnight in a comfortable city hotel before our return flights home the following morning.