Islay & Jura: Birds & Botany

A client travelled on our 'Islay & Jura in Summer' holiday and submitted this entry to our writing competition.

The Jura Hotel, Craighouse, Jura by Jennifer Thompson

‘Sea Eagle flying!’ We nearly fell over each other as we raced out of the visitor centre at Finlaggan to witness the fantastic sight of this magnificent bird cruising over a far-off hillside. Good views were had by the whole group as we watched what appeared to be a crow-sized bird accompany the eagle and which turned out to be a Buzzard which was completely dwarfed by it.

Finlaggan Loch is the ancient seat of the chiefs of the Hebridean islands, a mystical small island of ruins now reached on foot by a boardwalk. Surrounded by water and mountains it must have been a well defended head of clan stronghold.

Ten of us, plus our knowledgeable guide, Peter, were on a June trip to Islay and Jura, two small islands in the inner Hebrides. The roads, many just cinder tracks, were not built for speed and nor would anyone with a love of nature be in a hurry. With magnificent views all around this mountainous terrain, dotted by abandoned ruined cottages and white-washed houses, mainly single-storied to escape the winter winds, who could not be bowled over by Islay's beauty.  Yellow flagged irises were abundant and for the botanists in our group, the wild flowers were a delight, especially the orchids, of which seven species were noted.

At over 100 species, this trip was a birder's idea of heaven. On one day alone we saw a Golden Eagle, spotted by our ever watchful leader who put up his telescope so we could all marvel at its size and pick out its colour and its golden head as it perched on a crag. Soon after a croaking Raven flew over announcing its presence, followed by a male Hen Harrier, a species we saw almost every day. As if that was not enough excitement for one day, our tireless leader took us out again after dinner. Daylight lasted until after bedtime so we made full use of it. We eventually saw a Corncrake after spending some time trying to identify where the ‘Crex! Crex!’ was coming from. This was the icing on the cake, having seen a close view of a Barn Owl on a post on the way.

A list of birds too long to enumerate were seen, with each bringing its own delights. Suffice it to mention Twite, Choughs, drumming Snipe and Black Guillemots as other highlights, along with Short-eared Owl and Grasshopper Warbler, all with good long views. And who could forget watching an Otter on Jura slowly swimming ashore and eating a crab on the rocks. Other animals seen included Hares, Fox, Grey and Harbour Seals and Red and Roe Deer and not forgetting the wild goats.

This trip had its social side too as we relaxed in our excellent hotel every evening and attempted to work our way through the extensive malt whisky menu. Not easy with eight distilleries on Islay!

This trip is run by Naturetrek in the summer and autumn as well. If only I could have returned in October to see the geese!  Maybe next year.

Read more abour our 'Islay & Jura in Summer' holiday.