Chile – Just Pumas!

Sharon Toop travelled on our 'Chile - Just Pumas!' holiday and submitted this entry to our 2018 writing competition.

Puma, Chile

Cats are my passion, although it was more in hope than expectation that I booked Naturetrek’s ‘Just Pumas’ holiday to Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park; just one Puma would satisfy me!

I couldn’t believe my luck when, on our first morning, we saw a Puma by the roadside just 30 minutes after leaving our hotel. Although still dark, we watched from our vehicle as it moved out of sight up the hillside. A little later we were scanning the mountains, when we had a distant but clear view of another Puma strolling along a ridge. Two cats already; I was very happy. Little did I know then that I’d be privileged to spend hours watching many more different Pumas during our time searching for these beautiful cats with our guide, Sebastian, and tracker, Jorge. 

Every sighting was special but some were magical and are etched in my memory. How can I choose a favourite? Was it the old male we watched one evening as he guarded a Guanaco kill? He didn’t seem interested in eating, so we returned early the following morning and found him in the same place. He was joined by two younger males who settled close by. Eventually the braver of the two approached the carcass and there was a brief – but seemingly half-hearted – scrap with the old male before the youngster began eating. He was then joined by the other young male until, apparently satisfied, both youngsters moved away. The old male remained close to what was left of the kill, but we didn’t see him eat.

Perhaps it was the time we were able to walk at a respectable distance from a female Puma, as we followed her down to and across a road before she turned back in the direction she’d come from? She was seemingly unaware of our presence, although I’m sure she knew exactly where we were!

Maybe it was the morning we watched – albeit through the scope – another female Puma resting on the other side of a valley? Soon one cub was spotted playing around her, and then, to our amazement, a second! We took turns to watch in delight until both cubs bounded out of sight, followed closely by mum. 

Our most spectacular sighting occurred as we were watching yet another Puma occasionally raise her head from the depths of a bush. Eventually we were distracted by a grey fox minding his own business, playing on the ridge above her. Suddenly the Puma erupted from her hiding place to chase the surprised fox. She got very close to catching him, but seemed to give up. Perhaps she wasn’t hungry enough, or it was the fox’s lucky day? Either way, what a treat for us to witness this!

The ever-changing light, stunning scenery, and abundance of other wildlife – both birds and mammals – alone would have made this holiday worthwhile, but there’s nothing to beat observing such magnificent animals as Pumas in their natural habitat.

Read more about our ''Chile - Just Pumas!' holiday.