The French Pyrenees

The Pyrenees, that great barrier between France and Spain which rises to well over 3,000 metres and stretches for 450 kilometres from the blustery Atlantic to the sun-drenched Mediterranean, offers a scenic and cultural variety unmatched by other European mountain ranges. Its western extremities and north-facing (French ) slopes are largely wet, lush and green. Its southern (Spanish ) slopes, and those in the east (the Catalan-speaking French Roussillon ) are hot, dry and craggy, and carved by spectacular canyons. Naturally, such very different landscapes, and the climates that have fashioned them, provide for a very diverse flora and fauna.

On this holiday we will be exploring the Parc National des Pyrénées, situated in the high central region of the French Pyrenees. These north-facing slopes, closer to the Atlantic than the Mediterranean, are wet, green and well forested; in early summer their highest slopes remain snow-covered. Here, the high Pyrenean bird and mammal specialities are to be found amongst the most spectacular scenery; and the month of June, just before the hay is cut, is the best time to enjoy the wonderful flowering meadows of the Pyrenees, and their rich butterfly-life. Our base, throughout our stay, will be a pleasant country hotel in the quiet village of Gèdre. Situated at just over 1,000 metres, and a short drive from the magnificent Cirque de Gavarnie, Gèdre is an ideal base from which to explore the full spectrum of Pyrenean habitats during daily walking excursions.

The valleys that dissect the high peaks will be the main focus of our attention, with their high forests, mountain pastures and spectacular cirques. They offer fine walking and the best of high Pyrenean birds and flowers. The magnificent Cirque de Gavarnie and Port de Boucharo, on the Spanish border, comprise high limestone cliffs and screes, with imposing waterfalls that drain the dwindling glaciers. Overhead we will look out for Chough and Alpine Chough, Griffon Vulture, Lammergeier and Golden Eagle, whilst at ground level Snow Finch and Alpine Accentor feed around patches of melting snow. High cliffs will receive particular attention, for on these we will always have a chance of finding that most elusive of Pyrenean birds, the Wallcreeper.

Sometimes referred to as the ‘flower garden of Europe’, the rugged grandeur of the Pyrenees is complemented by an exciting and colourful flora, as diverse as anywhere in Europe. Notable in spring are drifts of daffodils, sweetly scented daphnes and the magnificent silver-leaved Pyrenean Saxifrage, Saxifraga longifolia subsp. longifolia. Many regional endemics reflect the long isolation of the Pyrenees from other European mountains and include such gems as Pyrenean Snakeshead, the yellow Pyrenean Lily, Ashy Cranesbill and that delightful member of the African Violet family Ramonda myconi.

The vast expanses of the Cirque de Troumouse and the neighbouring Cirque d’Estaubé, high above the tree-line, offer a different range of habitats, from pastures enlivened by drifts of white Pyrenean Buttercup, gentians and primroses, to rocky slopes with a wide range of alpine plants and dwarf shrubs. Pyrenean Chamois graze these upland pastures along with herds of domestic cattle and sheep. Breeding birds include Ring Ouzel, Rock Thrush and Citril Finch; Dippers fly along the rivers and raptors may include Booted and Bonelli’s Eagles, Goshawk and Peregrine. At lower altitudes, forests and meadows provide further botanical delights such as a profusion of orchids and specialities such as Horned Pansy and Pyrenean Hyacinth. Butterflies and other insects proliferate in the meadows and in the forests we may encounter Red Squirrel, Firecrest, Crested Tit and, with a little luck, the secretive Black Woodpecker.

This holiday, taking in the broad range of Pyrenean natural history, and offering a wide variety and choice of walking excursions, should suit a broad range of interests and abilities. We will also make the most of the local cuisine and liquid refreshments!