France - Butterflies & Orchids of the Cevennes

The Cévennes is a spectacular mountainous area on the south-eastern edge of the Massif Central. Delightfully unspoilt, its wonderful variety of scenery and habitats provide a special combination for the naturalist and walker. From our base for this holiday — a small and friendly hotel in the attractive little village of Cocurès, close to the administrative centre of the Cévennes National Park — we will make full use of the region’s excellent trails as we search for the wealth of plants, birds and butterflies to be found here; the delicious meals served at our hotel and our famous French picnic lunches will ensure that no one lacks for energy!

The Cévennes’ variety of habitats within such a relatively small area is truly exceptional. The granite and schist peaks of Mont Lozère (1,699 metres), Mont Aigoual (1,567 metres) and Mont Bougés (1,362 metres) have a quite different flora from the surrounding limestone areas, and pine and deciduous forests, hedgerows, limestone plateaux, flower-filled meadows, deep gorges and fast-flowing rivers provide further contrasts. To the west lies the vast limestone plateau of the Causses, with typical karst scenery of dramatic canyons, weathered peaks and caves. We will visit all these habitats, many of them protected within the Cévennes National Park that covers the central part of the range. Further diversity, created by the variety of climate, aspect, rainfall, soil and altitude, provides an extremely rich flora, especially orchids.

Insects are abundant, and a good variety of butterflies are to be found, together with many birds, particularly raptors. All in all, there is no doubt that this is one of the finest regions of France for the naturalist, whatever one’s interests, and we will explore it as best we can on walks throughout the area.

In the heart of the region lies the Corniche des Cévennes, a 50-kilometre ridge with a road along it that gives wide views over the national park and the Causses. Along the ridge the vegetation changes as the limestone gives way to schist, but the oldest traces of life, about 180 million years old, are the dinosaur footprints near St. Laurent. Walking here we should find many orchids — including Green-winged, Elder-flowered, Monkey, Military and Lady Orchids, plus their various hybrids — and such birds as Golden, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Black Kite, Buzzard, Alpine Swift and Rock Bunting.

We will also explore the Gorges du Tarn, to the west. Here the river has carved this deep gorge through the limestone, revealing many fossils and providing nesting ledges for Peregrine, Chough, Crag Martin and Blue Rock Thrush. Along the river Dippers and Grey Wagtails feed; above fly butterflies — Swallowtails, Scarce Swallowtails, Cleopatras, Green Hairstreaks, Adonis Blues and fritillaries. Typical mountain plants may be found here such as Rock Soapwort and rockroses, whilst a little to the north in the pinewoods we will find several wintergreens, together with such orchids as Bird’s Nest Orchid, and both Sword-leaved and White Helleborines. Birds in these woods include Crested Tit, Firecrest and woodpeckers, and Red Squirrel and Pine Marten are occasionally sighted.

Mont Lozère is the highest point of the region and a road takes us over its flanks via the Col de Finiels. The underlying rocks here change to provide us with both an alkaline and an acid flora, including many orchids, narcissi, bilberry, violas, potentillas, pulsatillas, rampions and avens. The area is favoured by birds of prey, and these may include Merlin, and Montagu’s and Hen Harriers. Rock Sparrow, Rock Bunting, Water Pipit, Alpine Accentor and Ring Ouzel may also be seen here, plus Goshawk, Sparrowhawk, tits, finches and warblers in the woods below.

On more than one occasion we will traverse the Causse Méjean with its wide open landscape and the extraordinary karst formations at Nîmes-le-Vieux. Wayside flowers include Pyrenean Broom, many vetches, Yellow Flax, the local subspecies of Alpine Aster, Grass-leaved Ox-eye Daisy, Maiden Pink, the saucer-sized seed heads of Acanthus-leaved Carline Thistle, which are traditionally pinned to the doors of houses, and Burnt-tip, Military and Spider Orchids, plus the endemic Aymonin’s Fly Orchid. Here we will also search for Stone Curlew, harriers, Short-toed Eagle, shrikes, Quail, Rock Sparrow, Tawny Pipit, Ortolan Bunting and such warblers as Orphean and Melodious.

In the Gorges de la Jonte we will be able to enjoy more birds of prey, including Griffon and Black Vultures — both the result of successful reintroduction programmes. Our route back to Cocurès takes us through the Causse Noir. The roadsides are awash with drifts of Sword-leaved Helleborine, small groups of Burnt-tip Orchids and bright blue patches of Pyramidal Bugle. Under the Black or Austrian Pines, from which this Causse gets its name, we will search for various wintergreens. We shall always be on the lookout for forest birds such as Goshawk and woodpeckers, and in the more open areas Stone Curlew, Redbacked Shrike, Orphean Warbler and Corn Bunting. The granite and schist outcrop of Mont Aigoual is reached by road, through Beech, chestnut, and then pine woodland. In spring, Poet’s Narcissi form white sheets, tulips provide yellow patches, and the verges support a range of orchids. Just below the summit is a ‘Sentier des Botanistes’ which we will walk, enjoying dramatic views across the Aigoual Massif. The summit area is being actively managed to encourage Apollo butterflies to thrive; it is also a great place for Egyptian Vulture, amongst other raptors. Our return takes us into the upper Tarnon valley with its flowerrich roadsides and meadows, and hillsides yellow with fragrant broom. This is not an area where any naturalist may become bored!