Sweden's Upland Birds

Lapland must surely be the most evocative, exciting and intriguing region of Scandinavia. Home to the nomadic, reindeer-herding Saami people, it is synonymous with inhospitable wilderness — a wild, untamed yet spectacular upland landscape, accessible only in high summer, outside winter’s long and icy grip. It is the high summer, too, when the region’s avian visitors move in to breed, capitalising on a phenomenal abundance of insect-life during a short season. It is these charismatic birds, and the magnificent scenery, that epitomise this holiday and, in combination with the taiga and wetland birds that we also hope to see, our itinerary offers a comprehensive range of Swedish bird specialities that includes owls, woodpeckers, grouse and the mountain specialities of Lapland.

 We begin, and end, in the lowlands of central Sweden: in Svartådalen and Berslagen. Here, attractive farmland is surrounded by lush oak forests, and lakes and wetlands lie amongst meadows and pasturelands, grazed by cattle and sheep in time-honoured fashion. Colourful, summer-plumaged Slavonian Grebes, Common Cranes, White-tailed Eagles, Ospreys and Black Terns characterise the wetlands, whilst Honey Buzzards and Goshawks, seven species of woodpecker (including Three-toed, Grey-headed and Black) and such passerines as Red-backed Shrike, Icterine Warbler, Thrush Nightingale, Common Rosefinch and Ortolan Bunting breed commonly. Here also lives the Great Grey Owl, that enigmatic taiga species more often associated with the landscape, dominated by coniferous forest, into which we will shortly be heading. This most sought-after and spectacular of birds can seem remarkably oblivious to human presence, and we will pray for a calm night and memorable views! We will also look for Pygmy Owl, plus both Tengmalm’s and Ural Owls whose owlets we will hope to see ringed when we visit their nesting sites.

Next we drive north towards the southern part of Lapland and the Scandinavian mountain range known as ‘the Scands’, passing through the farmland valleys of Dalarna and up towards scenic Lake Siljan. This is a culturally rich region of Sweden, endowed with traditional architecture, craft industries and folklore. The landscape now begins to change dramatically and our first stop amongst the mountains will be in Fulufjället National Park. Here, a walk that takes us to a dramatic gorge with a high waterfall may produce our first Rough-legged Buzzards, Siberian Jays and Siberian Tits, whilst Greenshanks breed beside the park’s visitors’ centre. On Nipfjället, the first of the truly barren mountains, we will look for Whimbrel, Ptarmigan and Snow Bunting, whilst Golden Eagles are always likely above the rocky slopes. Lower down, we will drive through valleys where Red-throated and Black-throated Divers, Velvet and Common Scoters, Long-tailed Ducks, Wood Sandpipers and Common Cranes all breed on the small lakes and pools by the roadside. Here we are also likely to encounter our first Reindeer, though a great many more will be seen in the mountains.

The Funäsdalen region, the southern outpost of Lapland’s special avifauna, will be the highpoint of our tour. We will spend three days here amongst its fresh air, beautiful scenery and northern birdlife, based in a mountainside hotel around which Bluethroats sing during both day and night. Climbing above the birch forest to the open tundra, we will enjoy a day’s walk on Flatruet. This is a high mountain plateau with an interesting high alpine flora and fauna, where confiding Willow Grouse, Ptarmigan, Dotterels, Red-necked Phalaropes, Temminck’s Stints, Long-tailed Skuas and both Snow and Lapland Buntings, all resplendent in full breeding attire, are amongst the many breeding species. Above, Golden Eagles, Rough-legged Buzzards, Hen Harriers and Merlins command the skies ... and, where the mountains rise dramatically to form steep cliffs, we will look out for majestic Gyrfalcons which sometimes breed in the area, as do both Short-eared and Hawk Owls during good Lemming years. At the foot of the mountains we will explore the taiga forest — home to Hazel Grouse, Hawk Owls, Three-toed Woodpeckers, Siberian Jays and Parrot Crossbills — and we may cross the border into Norway to enhance our chances of a Gyrfalcon. Finally, at night (although darkness never descends on these latitudes at this season!), we will enjoy one of Scandinavia’s finest shows ... at the lek of the Great Snipe. Here, on an alpine meadow at the foot of a great mountain, they perform their peculiar song and dance display, seemingly unaware of our human presence.

After a wonderful time in this magical alpine environment, we must reluctantly return south, perhaps stopping to look for Eagle Owl and Blyth’s Reed Warbler en route. Back in Svartådalen (the Black River Valley) for our final night, we have a chance to catch up with any of the owls, woodpeckers or wetland birds that we may have missed on our initial visit, and an option to enjoy some night-time birding in search of such species as Corncrake, Spotted Crake and Marsh Warbler!