Ladakh's Snow Leopards (lodge-based)

Until now, on our annual 'Ladakh — A Snow Leopard Quest', we have had to use tents on some nights during our search for Snow Leopards in the chilly winter of this mountainous Himalayan kingdom — the season in which these elusive cats and their prey descend to accessible altitudes. Now, by basing our search in a new area, the Ulley Valley, we are able to stay throughout our quest in a comfortable mountain guesthouse. This new accommodation offers five twin rooms and two shared bathrooms. Hot water bottles are provided each night to ensure a cosy night's sleep, and the main living area is heated by a warm central stove. It is a comfortable alternative to camping!

To reach Ladakh, in the far north-west of India, we must first fly to Delhi. From there we fly to Leh, Ladakh's capital, which boasts one of the highest airports in the world, at 3,256 metres. Our first three days will be spent in Leh, as we acclimatise to the altitude while enjoying a little local wildlife and culture. Then we will drive west to Ulley, our base for six nights as we search for Snow Leopards in an area that is relatively free of other visiting tourists.

The village lies at the centre of three interlocking valleys that support a population of about 10 Snow Leopards. These three valleys can be accessed by road, enabling us to explore the region by vehicle, but we will also search on foot. The effort should be worth it, for with the sharp eyes and expertise of our local guides on which to rely, there is an excellent chance of a memorable Snow Leopard sighting — whether at a kill or making its solitary way up a remote mountain pass, blending into the wilderness in which it is totally at home. We will also be on the lookout for Blue Sheep, the main prey species of the Snow Leopard, plus Asiatic Ibex, Ladakh Urial and cute Large-eared and Royle's Pikas. As for the birdlife, few species spend the winter here, but those that do – the Lammergeiers, Himalayan Griffons, Himalayan Snowcock, redstarts, finches and accentors – make splendid mountain companions!