France - Butterflies of La Brenne

La Brenne lies in an area of central France south of the Loire, about 80 kilometres south-east of Tours and 80 kilometres east of Poitiers. It is known locally as ‘The Land of a Thousand Lakes’ because of the numerous pools, mostly man-made, which dot its landscapes. Owing to the French appetite for freshwater fish, these have been managed over the centuries for fishing, and being privately owned by numerous smallholders, a rich tapestry of habitats has developed, including marshes, deciduous woods, dry heathland and farmland.

La Brenne is both the home and workplace of our local guides, Jason and Emilie Mitchell. Jason has been visiting La Brenne at least annually since 2001, and the region's exceptional wildlife and unique ambiance prompted him to move there with his family in 2013. Both Jason and Emilie have an exceptional knowledge and passion for this little-known wildlife gem lost in central France.

La Brenne has a dense population of breeding birds in the spring. Its heronries are of particular note, with good populations of both Grey and Purple Herons, Little Egrets, and Cattle Egrets (a recent colonist). Night Herons, Bittern and Little Bittern may also be seen with a little luck, whilst a careful search of the lakes reveals breeding Black-necked Grebes and Garganey, and overhead Black and Whiskered Terns — the latter more numerous here than anywhere else in France. No fewer than 16 species of warbler have bred in the area, and these include Savi’s, Great Reed, Cetti’s, Fantailed, Melodious, Dartford and Bonelli’s Warblers. The variety of habitats is particularly appealing to birds of prey. Whilst Black Kites, Short-toed Eagles and Honey Buzzards may be seen over the woodlands, Marsh, Montagu’s and Hen Harriers quarter reedbeds, marshes and arable land, and the dashing Hobby may be seen almost anywhere. In the farmland Quail and Stone Curlew may be found; in orchards and woodland are Wrynecks, Red-backed Shrikes, Black Redstarts, Short-toed Treecreepers, Serins and Cirl Buntings. The calls of Hoopoes and Golden Orioles, and liquid songs of Nightingales complete this classic collection of European birds. Although some of these birds, such as Montagu’s and Marsh Harrier, Honey Buzzard, Stone Curlew and Cirl Bunting occur locally or in small numbers in southern England, in La Brenne they are widespread and common. Likewise, a number of butterflies that are rare in England are common in La Brenne. These include the Large Tortoiseshell, Swallowtail, Scarce Swallowtail, White Admiral and Purple Emperor.

Most remarkably, no fewer than 36 species of orchid occur in the area! Whilst they are not all in flower at the same time, species we have seen on previous visits at this time of year include Early Spider (Ophrys sphegodes), Fly (Ophrys insectifera), Monkey (Orchis simia), Burnt Tip (Orchis ustulata), Lizard (Himantoglossum hiricinum), Tongue (Serapias lingua) and Violet Bird’s Nest Orchid (Limodorum abortivum). Other plants of interest that we should see include Milkweed (Vincetoxicum hirundinaria), White Asphodel (Asphodelus albus), Greater Broomrape (Orobanche rapum-genistae), Hairy Spurge (Euphorbia villosa), Blue Bugle (Ajuga genevensis) and Viper’s Grass (Scorzonera humilis).

Though rich in interest, La Brenne is not an extensive area and most habitats are within short drives of our hotel at Mézières. Thus we can maximise our time spent in the field, limiting the time spent in minibuses. This, therefore, is an ideal trip for the all-round naturalist, or the botanist, entomologist or birdwatcher who prefers unhurried outings, with the opportunity to sit for an hour or more by a lake watching a colony of Whiskered Terns, observing dragonflies, or searching for orchids.