Butterflies of the Dolomites

The dramatic peaks of the Italian Dolomites are renowned for their magnificent walks and alpine flora, but it is less well known that they are also one of Europe’s top butterfly hotspots.  The sheltered valleys provide a warm microclimate at a southern latitude, whilst the range of altitudes accessible provides a diversity unimaginable in Britain. ‘The Distribution Atlas of European Butterflies’ (Kudrna, 2002) shows over 150 species that are to be found within 50 kilometres of our base in the Val di Fassa. Indeed the valley is something of a secret refuge, for not only does it hold its own endemic flora but it is also home to the Ladin people, their traditions and their unique language with its Latin roots, quite different from Italian.

This relaxing week is set amongst the mountains but does not involve any strenuous mountaineering. Strolling gently through the alpine meadows, we will see waves of fritillaries, not only the familiar Silver-washed, Dark Green and Pearlbordered but also Titania’s and Mountain Fritillaries. Amongst the tall meadow grasses the Mazarine Blue flies in good numbers, and a flash of gold will lead us to Scarce Coppers, a reminder of what Britain has lost with the extinction of the Large Copper. Clouds of day-flying moths will be stirred up at our feet — another sign of the sheer diversity of nature all around us. The Val di San Nicolo is the first of several side valleys we will visit, its open meadows separated by a gushing river, and with wooded sides and the steep slopes that bring such varied habitats into one delightful area.

Our hotel is situated on a shoulder above the main Val di Fassa, nicely off the beaten track, and with a wonderful view in all directions. A friendly, family-run establishment with a Tyrolean atmosphere, it provides a superb breakfast buffet as an excellent starting point for our day trips.  The early evening is a good time to find roosting butterflies whilst strolling near the hotel, and in this way both Amanda’s Blue and an unusual form of the Marsh Fritillary (E. aurinia debilis) were found by recent groups. It is certainly a necessity to return to the hotel at the end of each day with a hearty appetite, for the evening meal is always a treat! Most evenings, weather permitting, we will run a moth-trap in the woods behind the hotel for those who are interested, then inspect the contents before breakfast the following morning.

There may be some patches of white amongst the distant peaks but the snow will be long gone from the ski slopes above Canazei, which by early summer have become the Bindelweg along which Farrer found such a variety of alpine flora.  We will drive up to the Pordoi Pass (at 2,239 metres) to walk a stretch of that path; home to a number of mountain ringlets of the genus Erebia, the Alpine Heath and the Mountain Clouded Yellow.

The domain of ‘King Lauren’s Rose Garden’ sits on a terrace high above our hotel, and is accessible by cable car or by shuttle bus. It is like a natural rock garden, stretching up to a mountain refuge lunchstop with an impressive view back to the sheltered high alpine pasture where we will spend the afternoon looking for butterflies, amongst them Shepherd’s Fritillaries, Silky Ringlets and a multitude of more familiar skippers and marbled whites.

A short drive south will bring us into the extensive Panevéggio Natural Park, with its own range of mountains, rivers, forests and pastures. We can expect to find the Arran Brown, the Sooty Ringlet and the Common Brassy Ringlet, as well as the more easily identified Large Chequered Skippers, Alpine Blues and Warren’s Skippers. With luck, we will experience Apollos drifting around us in sheltered glades — a truly memorable encounter.  There will be plenty of opportunities for photography; the longer we stay, the longer our species list will grow, and digital images will certainly help us to keep track of our sightings.

We may choose to descend to lower levels to extend the range of species on the wing. Swallowtails, Scarce Swallowtails and Camberwell Beauties are all to be found, and have a habit of popping up at unexpected moments. On a previous trip, the only Purple Emperor we saw settled at our feet at lunchtime!

If you enjoy entrancing scenery, fresh mountain air, and a rich diversity of wildlife, all coupled with Italian wine and cooking, this is the trip for you. If you are also a butterfly enthusiast, prepare to be impressed!