Brazil - Just Jaguars!

There is no doubt that the cat family occupies a special place in human affections. Whether it is a domestic tabby purring contentedly on its favourite choice of bed or a magnificent Tiger ‘burning bright’ as it pads through the forest undergrowth, there is a unique charisma about these creatures which instils both primitive fear and intense admiration. Naturetrek clients have always enjoyed a wide choice of tours offering the opportunity to observe ‘big cats’, including our unrivalled ‘Just Tigers!’ tour, but until now the beautiful Jaguar has remained just an enigmatic possibility on a few of our South American tours. Notoriously shy and elusive, this supreme predator is adept at concealment but, in the Pantanal region of Brazil, where numbers are probably higher than anywhere else on the continent, the chances of encountering one greatly increase on a Jaguar safari during the dry period between June and November, making it the perfect period for a successful jaguar safari tour. This is the season when the Pantanal waters are in recession, concentrating both prey and predator into the disappearing wet areas, and it is the time when Jaguars are most easily located. 

This exciting Jaguar safari makes the search for the elusive big cat its principal focus. Even at this most favourable season, it cannot be guaranteed that we will find our quarry. However, great effort will be made to maximise our chances of achieving our objective, with evening spotlighting and boat trips adding extra frisson to our searches. Even if the Jaguars fail to oblige there is a wealth of wildlife to enjoy in the Pantanal. Resident mammals include the bizarre Giant Anteater, Brazilian Tapir, Tayra, Marsh Deer, Crab-eating Fox and Giant River Otters whilst the exotic avifauna features a fine selection of waterbirds and the gorgeous Hyacinth Macaw. 

We begin the holiday by flying, via São Paulo, to Cuiabá in southern Brazil. From here we follow the Transpantaneira road to Pouso Alegre where we stay for two nights. We would have to be very lucky to find a Jaguar in this part of the Pantanal but we will use our time to simply enjoy the abundance of wildlife frequenting this magical place, particularly the great concentrations of herons, storks, ibises and wildfowl which feed under the baleful surveillance of Paraguayan Caiman that lie, scattered like logs, across the marshes. This is the haunt of snakes, countless amphibians and a myriad of insects, including colourful butterflies and gaudy dragonflies. During the heat of the day we will seek the comfort of our lodge and focus our field activities on the cooler early morning and afternoon periods when rewards may include such elusive creatures as a shy Brazilian Tapir or maybe a Jaguaroundi or Ocelot, two smaller cats to whet the appetite. 

From Pouso Alegre we journey south along the Transpantaneira Road to the locality of Porto Jofre. Travelling in our custom-built safari truck, the 120-kilometre journey is both a wildlife and Jaguar safari and we have the chance of encountering a wide range of wildlife, from troops of Black Howler Monkey to parties of grazing Capybara, the world’s largest rodent. Upon reaching Porto Jofre, we take to the water and cruise for 15 kilometres upriver to the Jaguar Flotel (a floating hotel) where we will be based for four nights. Located in the heart of what is widely regarded as the best area in the world for viewing Jaguars, we follow a routine of morning and afternoon boat safaris to explore the Cuiabá, Three Brothers and Piquiri Rivers, carefully scanning the dense riverine forest edge and rush-beds for a glimpse of South America’s apex predator. As well as incredible Jaguar views, we will also spend time with families of Giant Otters and visit a remote field station, with the aim of watching the magnificent Maned Wolf. This tour now offers an excellent chance of observing Brazil's 'Big 5' (Jaguar, Giant River Otter, Giant Anteater, Tapir and Maned Wolf).

Returning to Porto Jofre we board our safari vehicle and retrace our steps along the Transpantaneira Road to our final destination, the intimate SouthWild Pantanal Lodge, where we spend three nights. Filling our days with a mix of slow boat rides, leisurely forest walks and safari drives, we are able to expand our Jaguar safari to explore the rich gallery forests of the area, seeking terrestrial species that will have proved difficult from the flotel such as Azara’s Agouti, Brown Capuchin and even Southern Tamandua. In addition, a visit to an Ocelot hide provides a wonderful opportunity to watch for this elusive cat.

All too soon we will have to return to Cuiabá and begin the long journey back to Europe but, as we take our leave, the mighty Jaguar and all the many other fascinating creatures of the Pantanal will be facing yet more challenges as the waters continue to retreat, although the older animals will be instinctively aware that eventually the onset of rains will once again replenish the marshes to continue the cycle of life into another year.