Borneo's Mammals - Deramakot Forest Reserve

Located in the Malaysian state of Sabah, approximately 200 kilometres south-west of the coastal town of Sandakan, the previously little-known forest reserve of Deramakot has been creating quite a stir in the mammal-watching community of late, with numerous tales of south-east Asia’s most sought-after species being seen on a regular basis.

Occupying an area of 55,000 hectares and clothed in a mix of primary and secondary growth rainforest, Deramakot Forest Reserve is believed to provide refuge for over 75% of Sabah’s mammal species and has become a flagship reserve for the Sabah Forestry Department. Indeed, it is the only ‘Forest Stewardship Council’ certified concession in the whole of south-east Asia! As a result of an ongoing programme of selective logging, and without the luxurious accommodation so often found in other reserves these days, Deramakot has remained largely off the tourist trail. With no structured programmes, keen visiting naturalists are free to explore at will and it is perhaps this fact above any other that has made Deramakot such an exceptional location recently for rare mammal sightings. This exciting holiday begins with a night in Sepilok where we will have the opportunity to visit the famous Orangutan and Sun Bear rehabilitation centres. After some close encounters and an opportunity to learn about the ecology of these endangered species, a transfer of around four hours takes us to Deramakot.

Although our programme in Deramakot will remain flexible and governed by the latest sightings and the advice of our tour leader and local guides, it will almost certainly involve a large number of night drives, often starting before dusk and continuing well into the night. With the aid of a powerful spotlight we will explore the forest’s vast network of trails in our custom-built safari truck, scanning the dense vegetation and clearings for the forest’s many hidden wildlife treasures. At times we may be fortunate enough to chance upon an animal in the open, perhaps gorging on fallen fruits, but there will also be those occasions when we are limited to just a flicker of eyeshine in the darkness of the night. Of Deramakot’s many resident mammals, Bornean Striped Palm Civet, Malay Civet, Thomas’s Flying Squirrel, Red Giant Flying Squirrel, Large Flying Fox, Sambar and Philippine Slow Loris are likely to be amongst those most frequently seen on our night drives. With a little patience and perseverance, however, we also have an excellent chance of sighting some of the more unusual species of the area, such as Binturong, Leopard Cat, Bornean Colugo, Otter Civet, Sunda Stink Badger and even Sun Bear.

Late afternoon and early morning drives will likely present us with a different cast of forest inhabitants. Bornean Orangutan, Red Langur, North Borneo Gibbon and Bornean Pygmy Elephants are all possible, along with such star bird species as Scarlet-rumped Trogon, Bornean Falconet, Bornean Bristlehead, Bornean Ground Cuckoo and Giant Pitta. Although it would be exciting to see any of the aforementioned species, there can be no denying that for many visitors to Deramakot the biggest attraction will undoubtedly be the prospect of seeing a Sunda Clouded Leopard! Indeed, both staff and group visits have had success in finding this most elusive feline, although sightings were as a result of many hours of patient searching. Whether we will continue to enjoy such success remains to be seen. Even so, on current form Deramakot must surely rate as the best location in the world for seeing this elusive and sought-after cat.

After seven nights in Deramakot, we must transfer overland, via the bat-filled caves of Gomantong, and by boat up the beautiful Kinabatangan River for a 3-night stay in a comfortable eco-lodge. Taking to the water, we will explore the surrounding lagoons and tributaries by boat, hoping to encounter some of the region’s most iconic mammal species including Orangutan, comical-looking Proboscis Monkeys and delightful Bornean Pygmy Elephants. Nocturnal forays on the river should provide the opportunity to view roosting Blue-eared and Stork-billed Kingfishers, plus Buffy Fish Owls, several species of civet and, with luck, possibly even a Flat-headed Cat. After a relaxing three nights on this beautiful river we will now proceed by boat back to Sandakan and, from there, home.