British Columbia: Whales, Bears and Rainforest

Along the rugged coastline of British Columbia, dense temperate rainforest meets a labyrinth of inlets, islands and open ocean, creating one of the richest marine ecosystems in North America. Fed by nutrient-rich Pacific waters and sheltered by thousands of kilometres of fractured coastline, this region supports an impressive diversity of wildlife, from breaching Humpback Whales and hunting Orca, to Grizzly and Black Bears, Sea Otters, Wolves and vast numbers of seabirds.

Our ‘Canada – The West’ tour explores this remarkable corner of western Canada in depth, combining whale-watching, bear viewing and birdwatching across Vancouver Island and the fjords of mainland British Columbia. Travelling through the ancient forests of cedar, fir and hemlock, sheltered channels and open coastal waters, the tour offers repeated opportunities to observe the wildlife of the Pacific Northwest in its natural setting.

From the outset, Vancouver Island provides a striking introduction to the scale and diversity of the region. Crossing the Strait of Georgia, even the ferry journey can be productive, with Pacific White-sided Dolphins and Dall’s Porpoises frequently observed from the ferry. Birds such as Surf and White-winged Scoters, Pacific Diver, Pigeon Guillemot, Red-necked Phalarope and Bald Eagle are regularly encountered too, while pods of Orca are occasionally seen travelling through these productive waters.

On the island’s west coast, attention quickly turns to the whales. The nutrient-rich waters off British Columbia attract large numbers of cetaceans during the summer months, and excursions by boat from Tofino or Ucluelet provide opportunities to search for Humpback Whales, Grey Whales and Orca. Encounters are often memorable: the towering blow of a Humpback hanging in still air, a Grey Whale surfacing close to shore, or a pod of Orca moving steadily through calm water beneath a backdrop of dark conifer forest.

The sheltered inlets and tidal channels of the coast also support a healthy population of Black Bears. During low tide, bears regularly emerge onto the shoreline to turn over rocks in search of crabs and other intertidal prey, often allowing prolonged views from small boats at close range. Wolves are increasingly recorded along these remote coastlines too, particularly first thing in the morning.

Further north lies the Great Bear Rainforest, one of the largest remaining tracts of temperate rainforest on Earth and an important stronghold for the Grizzly Bear. Here, glacier-fed rivers cut through forests of Western Hemlock, Sitka Spruce and Western Red Cedar, providing vital spawning grounds for Pacific salmon. In late summer and autumn, the returning salmon attract large numbers of Grizzly Bears to the rivers, where they can often be observed fishing in shallow channels. Bald Eagles gather in the surrounding trees and along gravel bars, scavenging remains left behind by the bears.

Staying at the remote Great Bear Lodge allows access to this wild landscape, with daily excursions to the river to watch the bears, by small boat and on foot exploring the surrounding waterways and river systems. The area’s isolation also benefits a range of other wildlife, including American Marten, River Otter and an excellent diversity of birdlife associated with the coastal rainforest such as Varied Thrush and American Dipper.

Back along the coast, Johnstone Strait is among the best-known locations in British Columbia for watching Orca. The relatively sheltered waters of the strait form an important feeding area, particularly for the fish-eating ‘resident’ pods, and encounters here can be prolonged. Harbour Porpoises, Steller’s Sea Lions and Pacific White-sided Dolphins are also regularly encountered in these waters.

Birdlife is a constant feature throughout the journey. Bald Eagles are conspicuous across much of the region, while the coastline and offshore waters support a variety of birds, including Rhinoceros Auklet, Marbled Murrelet, Harlequin Duck, Wandering Tattler, Black Turnstone and numerous cormorants and gulls. In forested areas, species such as Steller’s Jay, Townsend’s Warbler and Pacific Wren add a distinctly north-western flavour to the avifauna. 

What makes western Canada particularly rewarding is the combination of large mammals, productive marine habitats and dramatic scenery. Snow-capped mountains rise directly from forest-lined fjords, while mist often hangs over quiet inlets and river mouths. In many areas, wildlife remains closely tied to the seasonal rhythms of salmon run, tides and ocean, creating a landscape and ecosystem that still functions much as it has done for centuries.

From watching Orca patrol Johnstone Strait to observing Grizzly Bears fishing beneath moss-draped conifers, British Columbia offers some of the finest wildlife viewing in all of North America.