Wild Spain - La Montana Palentina

There still remain corners of rural Spain, far from the reality of this fast developing and increasingly urbandwelling country, that have been forgotten by time, largely abandoned by all but the older generation, and which are being reclaimed by a wildlife no longer so persecuted by man. The Montaña Palentina — the Palentian Mountains — is one such place: a wild, unpopulated region of high ridges, rounded summits, sweeping valleys and magnificent panoramic vistas extending southwards to the great plains of Castile and Leon. Nestling in the shadow of northern Spain’s Cordillera Cantábrica, not far from the jagged limestone peaks of the Picos de Europa, the Palentian Mountains are dominated by the majestic Sierra de Peña Labra, essentially a high mountain ridge boasting a handful of 2,000-metre summits, amongst them Valdecebollas (2,136 metres) and Pico Tres Mares (2,175 metres) — Peak of the Three Seas. A raindrop falling on the latter could, in theory, end up in any one of the Bay of Biscay, the Atlantic or the Mediterranean, such is the peculiar hydro-geographical jigsaw that places this mountain at the source of such mighty watercourses as the Ebro and the Duero.

The ancient Palentian villages of the region are largely deserted, with hardly an occupied house in each. For this reason, so too are the Palentian Mountains … left for reclamation by Wolves, Brown Bears, Wild Boar, and numerous Chamois, Red Deer and Roe Deer, not to mention a host of smaller mammals such as Iberian and Brown Hare, Beech Marten, Pine Marten, Wildcat and the elusive Genet.

Our base for this week-long exploration of this little-known mountain wildlife haven is a comfortable hotel in Aguilar de Campoo, an historic town known for its medieval castle and biscuit-making industry. Aguilar lies on the doorstep of a truly wild landscape, comprising high mountain ridges rich in alpine flora, jagged crags and cliffs, and vast oak and Beech forests which support a high percentage of the endangered eastern population of the European Brown Bear. Much maligned, these magnificent creatures are notoriously difficult to see, roaming elusively over vast tracts of difficult terrain. Nevertheless, we do stand a chance of a sighting if we put in the effort at dawn and dusk, when the Bears are most active. At these times, our local Spanish naturalist guide, Tino, will use his 4-wheel drive vehicle to take us to remote view-points for optional opportunities to scan from high ridges for Bears, Wolves, Wild Boar and other mammals. He will make us feel very much at home, sharing a rich passion for, and knowledge of, these mountains … and regaling us with tales and photographs of close encounters with both Bears and Wolves. Tino is an expert in finding and interpreting animal tracks and signs left by Brown Bear, Fox, Wolf, Beech Marten, Badger, Wild Boar and deer, and will give us a masterclass in tree identification. We will also learn about the medicinal, culinary and other uses which the various plants and fungi that we shall see are put to.

Tino's local knowledge is very much central to our daily outings, with the majority of each day spent on foot in quiet locations accessed by vehicle. A range of habitats can be found in close proximity, with a full suite of raptors present, including resident Golden Eagles and Peregrines, and both Griffon and Egyptian Vultures. Black and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers both breed here, the latter possibly being easier to see here than throughout much of the rest of its range.

On one day we will drive further afield to explore the steppes and plains of the meseta, home to Great Bustard, Stone Curlew and other grassland birds, and a large (depending on rainfall) reed-fringed lake which supports numerous ducks, geese, waders and such interesting passerines as Penduline Tit and Moustached Warbler.

Stone carvings of ancient Romanesque churches, the old rock hermitage of San Vicente, old dovecotes and dwellings at Guaza de Campos and the historical centre of Aguilar de Campoo all add a picturesque charm to this ancient and beautiful landscape. There really is something of interest here for everyone.

Flexibility will be the key to this tour and, whatever time we arrive back at our base, we can be sure that a hearty meal will be waiting for us on our return each day from the wilds of this forgotten corner of Europe. It will be hard to leave!