Wild Portugal: Birds, Flora & Prehistoric Art

Portugal’s northern and eastern extremities are usually neglected by overseas visitors who are more likely to be lured south to the sunshine and sandy beaches of the Algarve. On this 2-centre holiday we will enjoy the natural history of two little-known regions in the north-east of the country from two exquisite hotels. First, we will stay in the Côa Valley — near the magnificent Douro River — where we will enjoy the rich birdlife of the region’s open plains, stunning gorges and Cork Oak woodlands. Then we will move southward into the Tejo International Natural Park, a sparsely populated region of the country, home to an abundance of birds, plants and other wildlife.

We begin our holiday with a flight from London to Porto, from where we will drive east to Castelo Rodrigo, close to Portugal’s border with Spain, for a 4-night stay. This wonderful old hilltop village was once a walled medieval citadel central to the struggles between the kings of Portugal and those of neighbouring Castile, then Spain. Steeped in history, and with stunning views out across the plains to the nearby Spanish border and the wide Douro river valley, a walk around its narrow streets should also offer an interesting introduction to the local birdlife including Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Sparrow and Cirl Bunting, plus noisy flocks of Iberian Magpies. In the surrounding plains, we will look for Black-winged Kite, Montagu’s Harrier, Southern Grey Shrike, Hoopoe, Golden Oriole and Bee-eater, whilst at night we will listen and search for Scops Owls and Red-necked Nightjars. The greatest attraction of Castelo Rodrigo, some might say, is Casa da Cisterna, a small hotel of great charm and our base for the next four nights. This has been lovingly created by our hosts, biologists Ana and Antonio, from a cluster of the citadel’s old houses and the ancient cistern which supplied the citadel with water. 

From this exquisite base, we will be sure to visit the small reserve of Ermo das Águias, located roughly in the middle of the course of the Côa River and set within the ‘Rewilding Europe’ project in which Ana and Antonio are involved. Golden Eagle, Black Stork and Griffon Vulture soar over the region, all of which we hope to see during our time here. On one evening, we will visit the Côa Valley to see Europe’s largest collection of Palaeolithic rock engravings which date back to 22,000 BC. These are best viewed by torchlight after dark, when depictions of wild horses and aurochs — almost identical to the Garrano horses and Maronesa cattle that graze the surrounding countryside today — can best be appreciated.

For the second part of this holiday we will drive deep into the heart of rural eastern Portugal, to the Tejo International Natural Park. The border section of the Tagus River and the surrounding valleys is one of the most sparsely populated regions of Portugal and this wild and varied landscape will create a delightful backdrop as we search for the birds, flora and other wildlife that live here. Our base for the latter half of the tour will be in the small village of Termas de Monfortinho, where our hotel overlooks open countryside and the Erges River. En route to Monfortinho we will stop at the Toirões Bog. This small wetland has been created on the site of an old disused mine and now offers refuge to a wonderful variety of wildlife including Otter, Black Stork, Purple Heron and breeding Marsh Harriers.

We now have two full days to explore the canyons, rocky hills and fertile valleys of the Tejo International Natural Park. Large tracts of Cork Oak and Holm Oak woodlands clothe the hillsides here, mixed in with olive groves and swathes of Gum Rockrose (Cistus ladanifer), the latter filling the air with its heady scent. There is an interesting variety of birdlife to look out for, including Blue Rock Thrush, Woodchat Shrike, Serin and Bee-eater, plus Spanish Imperial Eagle, Bonelli's Eagle and Honey Buzzard soaring overhead. We will also cross the border into Spain — via the 2,000-year-old Roman bridge in Segura — and drive to the nearby town of Alcántara. Here, we can take a walk through Alcántara's historic centre and along its cobbled streets to the old monastery, now occupied by bill-clattering White Storks and a colony of Lesser Kestrels.

After a week enjoying these two little-known, yet highly rewarding, regions — and the birds, butterflies, flora and history they offer — it will be hard to leave!