The Camargue in Spring

The Camargue, in Provence, is undoubtedly France’s — and indeed one of Europe’s — best known wetlands. Lying to the south of the historic Roman town of Arles in central southern France, at the very heart of the vast Rhône Delta, it covers about 750 square kilometres and provides a veritable oasis for a great many resident and migratory birds, in an area otherwise acclaimed for its sunny Mediterranean beaches, ancient Roman ruins and fine Provençal cuisine.

We begin our holiday with a flight to Montpellier or Marseille. The final approach to the runway may pass over the Etang de Mauguio where flamingoes are numerous and may be seen from the plane as we land! Our base for the next four nights is a small and pleasing family-run hotel on the outskirts of Arles, conveniently located just a short drive away from the Camargue, and for the next few days we will explore this legendary region of white horses and fighting black bulls. The Greater Flamingo is probably the best known denizen of this area, and we will spend time exploring the saline habitats of La Digue and the Etang du Fangassier where nearly 15,000 pairs of flamingoes breed alongside Avocets, Black-winged Stilts, Kentish Plovers, and both Slender-billed and Mediterranean Gulls whilst, in the nearby scrub, the elusive Spectacled Warbler may also be found. In peaceful lagoons and backwaters small numbers of Red-crested Pochard can be seen, whilst the extensive reedbeds, dykes and shallows of the Camargue support many herons and egrets, including Bittern and Purple Heron, Little Egret, Little Bittern, Squacco and Night Heron. Whiskered, Black and Gull-billed Terns feed along the ditches, while the surrounding grazing pastures and vineyards are ideal areas in which to see European Bee-eaters, European Rollers and Hoopoes.

The rice fields in and around the Camargue are yet another of the region’s rich habitats, beloved of herons, egrets, waders and terns, and where it is also possible to see France’s only breeding population of Collared Pratincole. Raptors are another highlight of the region, a healthy population and variety attracted by the abundance of prey. Marsh Harriers and Black Kites drift continuously over the delta, Hobbies dash madly after dragonflies and hirundines, whilst a Short-toed, Booted or perhaps even an elusive Bonelli’s Eagle may occasionally be seen. We will visit Le Marais de Vigueirat, a well managed reserve where it is possible to follow a walking trail into the reedbeds in search of such breeding birds as Great Reed, Moustached, Fan-tailed and Cetti’s Warblers and also, perhaps, both Penduline and Bearded Tits. On the western side of the reserve, near the village of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, is the Parc Ornithologique. Originally a bird hospital caring for the many birds injured as a result of illegal shooting, it now supports not only those birds that have not recovered fully enough to be returned to the wild, but also their offspring. Additionally, many wild birds are attracted to the site, for example, the wild White Storks that breed on top of the aviary housing injured storks! The habitats within the Parc are continually being developed, and now hold large breeding colonies of Mediterranean Gulls, Black-winged Stilts and various herons and egrets, all of which can be seen at close quarters. We may also visit the saline lagoons just inland from the beach at Piemanson which attract many species of waders at this time of year, along with Little, Common and, occasionally, Caspian Terns.

Other habitats are also within easy striking distance; for example, the dry stony steppe known as La Crau which covers some 50,000 hectares. This arid habitat, which in ancient times was actually the delta of the River Durance, has been extensively irrigated and supports such crops as melons and the famous Crau hay which is used to feed race-horses. The surviving areas of original habitat support small numbers of Little Bustard and the country’s only population of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, although these species are becoming increasingly difficult to see. Other noteworthy residents include Montagu’s Harrier, Lesser Kestrel, Stone Curlew, Short-toed and Crested Larks, Tawny Pipit and Southern Grey Shrike. North-east of Arles lie Les Alpilles, a range of limestone hills — an extension of the Luberon range — rising to 387 metres and covered with aromatic herbs and scattered pines. The spectacular cliff-top fortress of Les Baux attracts many raptors and, during our visit, we will search for such specialities as Egyptian Vulture, Bonelli’s and Short-toed Eagles, Eurasian Eagle Owl, Alpine Swift, Woodlark, Blue Rock Thrush, Sardinian and Subalpine Warblers, and Short-toed Treecreeper.

This area of France is especially rich in wildlife, history and local culture and, on this short holiday, we hope to enjoy a flavour of this diversity with an easy-paced itinerary that includes some quality birdwatching, good photographic opportunities, a visit to the Roman amphitheatre in Arles and ample time each day to enjoy our famous Naturetrek French picnic lunches!