Spring in Southern Portugal

The far south-western corner of Europe offers much for the naturalist, yet Portugal is a country so often overlooked in favour of the larger landmass of neighbouring Spain. This holiday is timed to get the best from this beautiful region’s rich flora and diverse range of breeding and migratory birds at, what is coincidentally, one of the most pleasant times of the year weatherwise. From the windswept cliffs, dunes and heaths of the west coast to the marshes and saltpans of the south, and from the Cork Oak forests of the Monchique Hills to the wide open grass plains and parkland of the Alentejo, we will encounter much of interest and wonder. All the time we will be immersed in the rich culture and history of southern Portugal, which is reflected in the fine Moorish architecture, excellent cuisine and wines, and rich contrasts from the 20th century bustle of the Algarve coast to the near medieval subsistence agriculture of the Alentejo valleys, where ploughing with mules is the norm.

Our tour starts in the beautiful hilltop town of Mertola, with its Roman ruins and spectacular Moorish castle. Perched high above the Guadiana River, Mertola offers fine opportunities to explore both the stunning flower-studded plains around Casto Verde — where we hope to see both Great and Little Bustards, Stone Curlew and numerous Montagu’s Harriers — and the rugged, seldom explored savannah country towards the Spanish border, where we might encounter Black-shouldered Kite, Black Vulture, Great Spotted Cuckoo and Black-bellied Sandgrouse. Oscillated Lizards, the largest European lizard, are common in this area, and the rivers are full of terrapins and water snakes.

One of the highlights during our 3-night stay at Mertola might be a journey north to the spectacular gorge and waterfall in the Guadiana valley at Pulo do Lobo, where Black Stork and Bonelli’s Eagle have bred. Mertola itself has a large colony of Lesser Kestrels and the sight of several dozen of these beautiful birds wheeling around in the evening sky above the castle and 14th century Franciscan convent is something to be remembered.

During the second part of our holiday we will be based for four nights in Sagres at the wonderful Memmo Baleeira Hotel, situated just a stone’s throw from a fort which served as Henry the Navigator’s 15th century School of Navigation. Comfortable, clean rooms are enhanced by a breathtaking modern design and, with outstanding views over the Sagres coastline, this hotel provides a relaxing and charming retreat.

Driving east, along the Algarve coast from Sagres, dunes, heathland, pine woodland and valley farmland will provide excellent botanising in delightful surroundings. Local birds should include Bee-eaters, Shorttoed Eagles, Nightingales, Red-rumped Swallows, Woodchat Shrikes, Cirl Buntings and many more. We will visit various sites along the west coast, including the dramatic Cape St. Vincent, the southwestern extremity of Europe, with its towering cliffs complete with Choughs and Peregrines, and the nearby Sagres Point which offers us the chance to enjoy an extraordinary limestone flora, resident Blue Rock Thrushes and Thekla Larks, and the aforementioned Henry the Navigator’s 15th century School of Navigation.

The Algarve coast has suffered much from development for the tourism industry over recent decades, but a few outstanding coastal marshes still remain. One such is the Quinta da Rocha near Portimão. Here there is a bird observatory and field centre poised on a picturesque peninsula covered in almond and olive groves, scrubland and pine woodland, and sandwiched between two small river estuaries. The range of plants and animals to be encountered here is huge. Mirror and Tongue Orchids, asphodels and broomrapes abound. Bee-eaters, Hoopoes and Woodchat Shrikes are everywhere. Black-winged Stilts and Kentish Plovers breed on the marshes which ring to their calls and to the songs of Short-toed Larks, Fan-tailed Warblers and Yellow Wagtails. We will spend a rewarding day here, rounded off with an evening visit to the spectacular cliffs and stacks of Ponta da Piedade that house a large colony of Cattle and Little Egrets.

Such are some of the delights of southern Portugal in spring that, by the end of this holiday, we are sure, like many of our tour leaders, you will be truly under the spell of this charming country.