Puglia in Spring

Situated in the far south-east of Italy, the delightful Puglia region, known for its olive trees and traditional conical-roofed ‘trulli’ (Apulian dry stone huts), offers a profusion of spring flowers as well as the largest colony of Lesser Kestrels in Italy. Puglia boasts some impressive limestone gorges, caves and sinkholes, the best known of which is the 12-kilometre ‘Gravina di Laterza’ which has been called ‘Italy’s Grand Canyon’ and reaches a depth of 200 metres. The region’s dramatic karst landscapes and beautiful coastal scenery are not only attractive to the eye, but also provide a mosaic of different habitats for Puglia’s varied wildlife.

We begin our holiday with a flight to the city of Bari, located on the edge of the Adriatic Sea. From here we drive southeast to Otranto, a historic and attractive village set on the ‘heel’ of Italy’s bootshaped coastline. We will be based in a delightful ‘Masseria’ — a fortified Puglian farmhouse — just inland from Otranto for three nights, whilst we explore this attractive region and visit Capo D’Otranto, Italy’s most easterly point. This is an excellent site for watching the spring migration of raptors, along with an interesting variety of migrant warblers, pipits and flycatchers. The vibrant coastal maquis here is dotted with pink and white species of cistus in April along with the yellow callicotome and bright green Tree Spurge. Open areas are home to plants with a more easterly distribution such as Jerusalem Sage, Micomeria graeca, the bellflower Asyneuma limonifolia and the figwort Scrophularia lucida. At this time of year a colourful selection of butterflies should also be on the wing, including Italian Marbled White, Swallowtail and Adonis Blue, whilst Italian Wall Lizards bask in the warm sun.

Further north, we explore the Oasi Le Cesine, one of the best-preserved wetlands in southern Italy. Although the reserve is home to a wide variety of birds, we will also turn our attention to the ground in search of Apulian Bee Orchid, Ophrys sphegodes subsp. candica and Bumblebee Orchid. On another day we will explore the Ionian coast, finding more orchids amongst the heath and saltmarsh of Palude del Capitano, and visit one of the 16th century coastal defence towers at Santa Caterina, which affords glorious views along the Salento coast.

Moving on, we will head north-west to our second base in the rolling hills of eastern Murgia, close to the small town of Crispiano (north of Taranto). Our hotel’s extensive grounds should be carpeted in orchids! We will be based here for the final four nights of the tour whilst we explore locally and head a little further afield to the towns of Matera and Laterza, about an hour’s drive away. Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage Site — and European capital of culture in 2019 — is best known for its ‘sassi’, ancient houses carved into the limestone rock. We will visit the Parco Mugia, the plateau above the Matera Gorge, from which one can view the rows of sassi opposite. Lesser Kestrel, Red and Black Kites, Alpine and Pallid Swifts and Blue Rock Thrush are among the birds we may encounter here. Lizard Orchids, the endemic yellow rock-rose, Helianthemum jonium, and the vivid mauve Matthioa fruticulosa are among the other floral treasures to be found.

On another day we will visit the Gravina di Laterza, Italy’s so-called Grand Canyon. Here we will join a guided walk along the side of the gorge, not only to enjoy the dramatic views, but to look for some of the wildlife that lives here such as Egyptian Vulture, Lanner Falcon, Blue Rock Thrush and, for the very fortunate, perhaps a roosting Eagle Owl. Peonies (Paeonia mascula) are found in the Holm and Macedonian Oak woodlands that line the gorge, whilst a host of orchid species grow in the more open areas.

On our final day we will walk to the bottom of the Bosco delle Pianelle, a collapsed cave known locally as a ‘doline’. On the woodland floor grow Spring Cyclamen, Naked Man Orchid, Bird’s-nest Orchid and several species of helleborine. We will also visit the ‘Trullo Grande’ which stands in a clearing near the woodland edge and, further afield, explore the charming hill-top town of Cisternino.

This relaxed-paced holiday has something for everyone, from interesting birds, flowers and butterflies to unique local culture, traditions and exceptional food! At the end of our stay we must return to Bari for our flight back to the UK.