Madeira - The Floating Garden

This tour to Madeira, a naturalist’s paradise often referred to as ‘the floating garden’, is timed to coincide with the peak flowering times of a vast array of beautiful plants, and the breeding season for most of the birds. It is a tour for the all-round naturalist, concentrating on the species that are unique to the islands.

Situated in the north Atlantic about 560 kilometres off the north-west coast of Africa, the Madeiran archipelago is very much the Galápagos of Europe, being of volcanic origin and isolated from colonisation from the continent by the predominantly westerly winds. Like the Galápagos, many of the species found in Madeira are found nowhere else on Earth. Unlike the Galápagos, however, very little is known about most of them!

The Madeiran archipelago comprises five main islands. The largest, Madeira itself, is only about the size of the Isle of Wight, but rises to over 1,830 metres. The landscape is rugged and spectacular, with deep ravines, gorges and swathes of lush and pristine Laurissilva forest — home to the rare and endemic Madeiran Laurel Pigeon. The vast system of levadas — man-made watercourses — which run at a steady gradient along the sides of the mountains and hills throughout the island provides an ideal means of exploring its little-known corners at a gentle pace. The incredible number of 1,163 plant species has been recorded from the islands, of which 113 are endemic! Even in a week, by carefully planning the itinerary to visit as wide a range of habitats as possible, we will be able to appreciate the great richness and diversity of this wonderful island.

This ‘floating garden’ is aptly named for, apart from the wild flowers, birds and butterflies for which this tour is planned, the whole island is also awash with cultivated flowers. Indeed most roadside verges are planted with lilies and other flowering plants and the process is continuing as can be seen from our minibus as we traverse the island each day. Funchal, the main city where we are based, is a garden in itself with many beautifully managed squares planted with stunning tropical and subtropical trees, shrubs, plants and creepers of all kinds; even the rivers running through the centre are covered in a canopy of bougainvillea, and it is this lush flora with its nectar, pollen and attendant insects that is a natural magnet for birds and especially butterflies.

On our rest day (day 6) we will have time free to explore Funchal. We especially recommend visiting the excellent botanical gardens overlooking Funchal which have been laid out in various vegetation zones of endemic plants and exotics. The birdwatching is surprisingly good too as the varied flora and attendant insects is a natural magnet for birds and, of course, butterflies — such as the newly colonised Monarch butterfly. The endemic races of Blackbirds, Blackcaps and Robins are ubiquitous, as well as Spanish Sparrows. Alternatively, there will also be an opportunity for an optional pelagic trip to look for cetaceans and seabirds. Sightings can include a variety of whales and dolphins, as well as seabirds such as Cory’s and Manx Shearwaters, Bulwer’s Petrel and even, with luck, the endemic Zino’s Petrel.

Porto Santo, about 55 kilometres to the north-east of Madeira, is also part of the archipelago, as are the arid Desertas Islands which form a chain lying about 25 kilometres to the south-east of Madeira. They are a designated nature reserve for their internationally important seabird populations. They are managed by the National Park Service of Madeira and, due to the vulnerability of the Fea’s Petrel colonies, access is restricted.

The colours and fragrances of Madeira, the stunning and varied scenery, and the opportunity to observe some of the extremely localised birds will surely make this tour one to remember.