Lesbos in Autumn

The green and fertile island of Lesbos lies in the far east of the Aegean Sea, just a few kilometres from the coast of Turkey. Third largest of the Greek islands, it has a rugged mountainous interior reached by narrow twisting roads that pass through villages where the traditional way of life is virtually unchanged. A magnificent coastline has thus far escaped the ravages of mass tourism, although the island has long been popular with artists and discerning Greek holidaymakers. A major source of revenue is the production of high quality olive oil and one of the most conspicuous aspects of the island vegetation is the abundance of Olive Trees, which seem to adorn every hillside and valley. Fishing is still an important industry, with the autumn catch of Kalloni Bay Sardines a speciality. Another local industry is the distilling of Ouzo, and the product can be sampled at the numerous tavernas which are such a feature of Greek island life.

With so many natural attributes, Lesbos is a perfect Naturetrek destination, and our spring visits have been popular for many years. Now, however, we offer the chance to enjoy this beautiful island and its birds in autumn. We’ll explore its headlands, wetlands and other birding hotspots to experience the autumn migration, as summer visitors to Europe and Central Asia move southwards. As well as searching for these passage migrants we will also seek out the resident species, plus any late-staying summer visitors or early winter visitors. A particular focus of this trip, however, will be watching for migrant birds of prey as they head south after leaving Turkey.

We’ll be based for seven nights at a small family-run hotel in the fishing village of Skala Kallonis at the head of Kalloni Bay, a large shallow inlet from the sea. The village is renowned for its Sardine fishery and there are a number of excellent restaurants by the harbour to sample this and many other Greek specialties. The sheltered waters and uncrowded beaches provide diversions for anyone wishing to relax in the Aegean sun but Skala Kallonis is also close to some of the best birdwatching sites on the island, making it a perfect base for our activities. Nearby river-mouths and saltpans will warrant frequent inspection for incoming migrants, in particular herons, wildfowl and waders.

Further afield we will enjoy leisurely day trips to a range of prime birding areas on the island including the Lardia Valley near Skalachori and the Polichnitos Saltpans. We will also explore the fields and olive groves along the north and west coasts — the Korakas headland, Faneromeni and Meladia Valley being amongst the most likely sites for autumn migrants, especially birds of prey. There will be time to enjoy unhurried lunches at favourite tavernas, and picnics in sleepy corners of the island where working donkeys and herds of goats browse in pastoral scenes.

The diminutive Krüper’s Nuthatch is one of the less common resident birds that we will be hoping to find, but many other avian delights should await our discovery, perhaps including Long-legged Buzzard, Lesser Kestrel, Eleonora’s Falcon, Rock Nuthatch and Sombre Tit to name but a few. Whether amongst rocky hills and valleys that are home to Chukar Partridges, Blue Rock Thrushes and Rock Sparrows, or watching Wood Sandpipers probing alongside Little Egrets on a muddy pool or saltpan, there should always be something of interest to see and enjoy. Autumn migration will be in full swing and unusual migrants and unexpected vagrants can turn up almost anywhere, enhancing that sense of anticipation at every birdwatching stop; Dalmatian Pelican, Pectoral Sandpiper, Spur-winged Plover, Citrine Wagtail and Steppe Grey Shrike are some of the rarer species recorded in recent years.

Birdwatching in Lesbos during the autumn migration season will be fascinating, but there will be many other wonderful memories to take away as a reminder of our stay on the island. Warm sunny days ending with a chorus of cicadas and crickets, fireflies flashing in the darkness, and the chance to enjoy an unspoilt Mediterranean landscape — something of a rarity these days! Add to this heady mixture the natural warmth and hospitality of our island friends and hosts and you have all the components of a delightful end of summer holiday.