Lesbos

The green and fertile island of Lesbos lies in the Aegean Sea just a few kilometres from the coast of Turkey. Third largest of the Greek islands, it has a rugged mountainous interior which travellers can access by means of narrow twisting roads passing through villages where the traditional way of life is virtually unchanged. A magnificent coastline has thus far largely escaped the ravages of mass tourism, although the island has always been popular with Greek holidaymakers and artists. A major source of revenue is the production of high quality olive oil and one of the most conspicuous aspects of the island vegetation is the abundance of Olive Trees which seem to adorn every hillside and valley. Fishing is still an important industry but, as with other fisheries in Europe, catches have been much reduced in recent years. Another local industry is the distilling of Ouzo and the product can be sampled at the numerous tavernas which are such a feature of Greek island life. With so many natural attributes Lesbos is a perfect holiday destination; however, for birdwatchers there is further incentive, for the island is not only perfectly situated as a stopover for migrant birds heading north from Africa, but also boasts an impressive list of breeding species. There are few better places in Europe to observe the ebb and flow of spring migration and certainly none more pleasant.

We are based for seven nights at a small family-run hotel in the village of Skala Kallonis at the head of a large shallow inlet from the sea. The village is renowned for its Sardine fishery and there are a number of excellent restaurants along the waterside to sample this local speciality. The sheltered waters of the bay and uncrowded beaches provide diversions for anyone wishing to relax in the Aegean sun but Skala Kallonis is also close to some of the best birdwatching sites on Lesbos and a perfect base for our activities.

A variety of pools, marshes and saltpans in the vicinity of Skala Kallonis provide some of the biggest concentrations of birds on the island and will warrant daily inspection to witness the ever-changing populations of passage migrants, in particular herons, waders and marsh terns. Venturing further afield we will arrange our programme to ensure a leisurely exploration of the prime birding areas elsewhere on the island. A full day will be spent in each of the main regions, allowing plenty of time to thoroughly investigate the range of habitats and to enjoy unhurried lunches at convenient tavernas. In the course of our travels we will be seeing rural corners of the island where donkeys replace motor vehicles and herds of goats browse in pastoral scenes, which seem a world away from the windsurfing and paragliding activities of the tourist resorts.

The local Krüper’s Nuthatch and Cinereous Bunting are two of the rarer breeding birds that we will be hoping to find, but many other delights await us including Long-legged Buzzard, Lesser Kestrel, Bee-eater, Lesser Grey and Masked Shrikes, Rock Nuthatch, Rüppell’s and Olive-Tree Warblers to name but a few. Whether crossing rock-strewn hillsides where Black-eared Wheatears and Cretzschmar’s Buntings abound, or watching waders probing alongside egrets and herons on a muddy pool, we are never far from birds on Lesbos, and in late April and early May each morning brings a fresh selection of new arrivals. Some, like Black-winged Stilts, Collared Pratincoles and Red-footed Falcons, may linger for days where there is a good supply of food; others, driven by the compulsion to move north to breeding grounds, only settle for a few moments before continuing their journey. Such wanderers can turn up almost anywhere and enhance the sense of anticipation at every birdwatching stop. The regular migrants form a long and impressive list but added to this are vagrants, many of Central Asian origin, which have occurred in recent years including Lanner Falcon, Spur-winged Plover, Great Snipe, Citrine Wagtail and White-throated Robin.

Birdwatching in Lesbos during the spring migration season is an unforgettable experience, but there will be many other memories to take away as a reminder of our stay on the island. Hot sunny days ending with the chorus of cicadas and crickets, fireflies flashing in the darkness, lizards scuttling from underfoot, and a profusion of wild flowers and butterflies including among the latter the impressive Scarce Swallowtail. Add to this heady mixture the warm hospitality of our island hosts and you have all the components of a superlative holiday.