Hungary's Winter Birding Bonanza

Once the coldest days of winter have passed, Hungary's frozen landscapes slowly come back to life. Freshwater lakes and wetlands thaw, encouraging thousands of ducks, geese and other wintering birds to gather to feed, roost and bathe, bringing with them some of the region's scarcer visitors such as the beautiful Red-breasted Goose and the striking Smew. At the same time, the vast forests in the north of the country also start to show the first signs of spring, with birdsong gradually increasing through February and March and woodpecker display activity reaching its peak.

This 6-day holiday focuses on the very best of Hungary's late-winter birdlife. We begin with a flight to Budapest, the nation's attractive capital, from where we transfer east to the Hortobágy National Park for a 3-night stay. Enroute, we will stop at a small village to visit a roost of Long-eared Owls. A remarkable 500 birds roosted here in the winter of 2023!

We will then complete our drive to the Hortobágy National Park and check into our ideally-positioned hotel, which is located in the heart of the national park close to the reserve's key wildlife hotspots. The wetlands of the Hortobágy attract huge numbers of wildfowl during the winter months, along with a wonderful variety and abundance of raptors, finches, buntings and other species seeking relief from the harsh weather further north. Huge flocks of Greylag and Greater White-fronted Geese roost on the extensive network of fishponds and other lakes that dot the national park and then venture out into the nearby fields during the day to graze. They are joined by small numbers of two rarer species, the delicate Lesser White-fronted Goose and Red-breasted Goose, arguably the most beautiful of the family. Large flocks of Wigeon, Teal, Shoveler, Pintail and other ducks winter here too — along with the attractive Smew — and it is likely that we will see (and hear) the first returning Common Cranes of the year, stopping over to rest and feed on their long journey north. Other birds to look out for include Pygmy Cormorant, Spoonbill, Bearded Tit, Crested Lark and Great Grey Shrike. The grassy plains and steppe of the Hortobágy (the so-called 'puszta') are also justly famed for the number and diversity of raptors that winter here, most notably White-tailed Eagle, Hen Harrier, Rough-legged Buzzard, Long-legged Buzzard, Saker and Eastern Imperial Eagle. We will also ensure we track down a flock or two of Great Bustard, the reserve's most well-known avian inhabitant!

Leaving the plains behind, we next venture north to Bükk National Park for our final two nights of the holiday, crossing the impressive Tisza River en route. The extensive old forests of the Bükk Hills are home to six species of resident woodpecker (plus Wryneck in the summer), all of which should be vocal and active in early March as they stake out their territories for another year. A walk among the trees here — with the late-winter sunlight filtering through the branches — could produce Black, Grey-headed, White-backed, Lesser Spotted, Middle Spotted and Syrian Woodpeckers and, because the trees are still leafless at the time of our visit, we will have great opportunities for prolonged views as they 'drum' and call. This is also a good time to go in search of some of the region's scarcer residents, including Ural Owl and Pygmy Owl, both of which breed early. We hope that a night walk or two may prove successful. The Bükk Hills are also home to the striking Hawfinch and wintering flocks of Brambling, plus Marsh and Willow Tits too. Meanwhile, a glance down to the woodland floor may reveal a non-avian highlight such as a Fire Salamander which often frequents the damp forest tracks.

During our time in the Bükk Hills we will search nearby stone quarries for the resplendent Wallcreeper. Small numbers usually winter in these quarries and we will make a special effort to find this sought-after and striking bird if our guide is aware of any wintering nearby. Other rocky scree specialists, such as Rock Bunting and Alpine Accentor, can also be found in these quarries from time to time. Wolves reside in the area too and, although we would need a great deal of luck to see one of these secretive canines, hearing them howl from a distance is a realistic possibility!

Our time exploring the plains and hills of Hungary concludes with a short drive back to Budapest Airport from where we catch our flight home.