Estonia - A Steller's Eider Special

Estonia is the smallest of the three former Soviet Republics which were known collectively as the ‘Baltic States’. Always the most prosperous of the trio, the country has enjoyed moderate financial growth since gaining independence in 1991, and accession to the European Community in 2004 was a natural progression for a nation anxious to once again become part of Western Europe. The topography of Estonia consists predominantly of low-lying marshes, rivers and forests, through which are scattered over 1,500 lakes, whilst its western border is set by a deeply indented Baltic coastline, along which lie countless islands of varying sizes.

The credentials of Estonia as a major European birdwatching destination have been firmly established by the successes of our March/April tours. Participants have returned from these holidays full of enthusiasm, not just for the superlative birdwatching but also for the hospitality of our Estonian hosts, who take great pride in sharing with visitors both the natural history and the gastronomic delights of their country! Nesting activity builds throughout March and as the days lengthen in early April – the icy grip of winter melted by the increasing warmth of the sun – rafts of Steller’s Eider begin to congregate in their favourite bays, the males noisily displaying to an audience of seemingly indifferent females. As many as a thousand birds may be seen in one of the largest concentrations of this rare duck in European waters. Another significant attraction in early spring is the relative ease with which the resident woodpeckers can be found in forests that have yet to attain their summer canopy of leaves, plus the increased chances of observing Black Grouse and Capercaillie.

We begin our visit with a flight from London to Estonia’s capital city, Tallinn where we overnight (depending on flight schedules). The following morning we transfer west by a road, aiming to arrive at the display grounds of the Black Grouse, in time to hear the bubbling cries of the lekking males, providing an accompaniment to a morning visit. Nearby we will listen for the bizarre vocalisations of Capercaillie in the forests and may also find shy Hazelhens to complete a trio of Estonian grouse. Later we travel along the Baltic coast where tens of thousands of wildfowl congregate, and explore the Poosaspea Peninsula, a narrow spit of land which affords excellent opportunities to scan bobbing rafts of seaduck, including many Long-tailed Ducks.

Next we take a ferry across to Saaremaa Island, the largest of the many islands that stud the Estonian coastline, and travel to a favoured inlet where, each winter, several hundred Steller’s Eiders collect. These rare seaducks will be our main objective but the waters around Saaremaa are also frequented by scoters, Long-tailed Ducks and other maritime species. The flocks of eider form an impressive spectacle and there are very few locations in Europe where so many can be seen in one locality, with the large congregations also frequently attracting the attention of vigilant White-tailed Eagles.

The Parnu region of the country will be the focus of our last full day in Estonia. Here we will be concentrating on a mix of coniferous and broad-leaved forests which, in early spring, resound with the drumming and calls of woodpeckers. Black, Grey-headed, White-backed and Three-toed Woodpeckers will be of particular interest but, as well as the woodpecker representatives, we will also be looking for other residents such as Nutcracker, Crested Tit and Hazelhen. A remarkable six days in Estonia will end with a short tour of ancient Tallinn before we return to the airport for our return flight to London.