Cyprus - Autumn Flowers of Aphrodite's Isle

The island of Cyprus has become an increasingly popular destination for Naturetrek in recent years during spring, a season when the country is awash with flowers and acts as an important stepping stone for numerous tired migrant birds tracking their way north into Europe. The rest of the Cypriot year is then largely ignored by the naturalist, which is a great shame for, after the hot dry summer has passed, the island comes alive once more during the latter half of the year. Soon after the first of the autumn rains have fallen, a colourful variety of flowering bulbs — which have laid dormant in the soil for months — burst into life. Flowers such as Sea Daffodil and Sea Squill, along with many sought-after endemics, including Cyclamen cyprium, Odontites cypria and Dianthus cypria, add a welcome splash of colour to Cyprus’s rugged hills and rocky coastline, and are the focus of this 8-day botanical holiday.

This 2-centre tour begins with a direct flight into the town of Paphos on Cyprus’s western tip. We will be based here for the first three nights of our holiday as we explore the nearby coastline, rocky hillsides and reservoirs. Paphos was founded by the Trojan hero Agapinor and became the capital of Cyprus during the Roman period. The town is dotted with many important Roman remains, the most important of which lie within the Paphos Archaeological Park which sits atop Paphos Headland and has been included in the UNESCO list of cultural and national treasures. The ‘Tomb of the Kings’ and nearby floor mosaics in the House of Dionysius are two of the archaeological highlights here, although our visit will be as much to enjoy the site’s wildlife treasures as the archaeological ones. Flowers to look out for include Taraxacum aphrogenes, Muscari parviflorum and Narcissus serotinus, whilst the headland is also a great area to look for Spiny-footed Lizard and a variety of late migrant birds such as Tawny Pipit, Red-backed Shrike and Wryneck. There is even a chance of a wintering Greater Sand Plover.

We will also head further afield from Paphos to explore the Asprokremmos and Kouris Reservoirs, rich areas for flowers and birds throughout the year. The reservoirs are regular wintering sites for Finsch’s Wheatear, a sought-after passerine that only breeds from eastern Turkey into central Asia, but winters in small numbers in Cyprus. We also hope that there may be one or two lingering Cyprus and Spectacled Warblers here as well as a colourful variety of autumn flowering plants such as Crocus vernis.

Moving on, we will spend our final four nights in a comfortable beach hotel a short distance from the small town of Latchi and close to the ‘Baths of Aphrodite’, an attractive natural pool where the goddess of love was fabled to bathe. Latchi is located at the foot of the beautiful Akamas National Park, an area of outstanding natural beauty covering over 230 square kilometres that has largely escaped the development that has blighted other regions of coastal Cyprus. According to legend, Akamas took its name from the eponymous Greek mythological hero, the son of Theseus, who came to the island after the Trojan War and founded ‘Akamantis’. The area lies at the easternmost point of three major European floral zones and is therefore extremely rich botanically. We will spend much of our time here on foot exploring the dramatic cliffs and coastal maquis in search of such flowers as Arisarum vulgare, Scilla autumnalis, Narcissus tazetta and Spiranthes spiralis (Autumn Lady’stresses), plus trees such as Pistacia terebinthus and Arbutus andrachne, the eastern Strawberry Tree. We will also head inland, however, to the dramatic Troodos Mountains to look for a kaleidoscope of Cypriot endemics including Alyssum akamasicum, Centaurea veneris and Cyclamen cyprium, and visit the Pegeia Forest, one of the best-preserved lowland juniper and pine forests on the island.

Although Cyprus’s rich autumnal flora will be the primary focus of this tour, we will not ignore the island’s birds and other wildlife. Starred Agamas and Troodos Lizards sun themselves on the Carob Trees, whilst Long-legged Buzzard, Chukar, Spanish Sparrow, Sardinian Warbler, the endemic Cypriot race of Coal Tit and the vocal, but elusive, Black Francolin are also likely.

A visit to ‘Aphrodite’s Isle’ would not be complete without sampling the local tavernas, where we will be sure to enjoy some of the region’s culinary highlights before returning to Paphos for our direct flight home.