Bulgaria in Autumn

Bulgaria remains one of the most under-visited corners of Europe and yet its broad range of habitats and geographical position mean that it supports a very diverse and exciting range of both breeding and migratory bird species. The western shore of the Black Sea naturally acts as a major migration corridor and our tour is timed to witness the peak passage of large numbers of raptors, storks, pelicans, waders and other species that pass south along the Bulgarian coast at this time of year. In the course of an action-packed week, we will explore the meadows and gorges of the Rhodope Mountains before travelling across country to the extensive coastal wetlands around Pomorie, the woodlands of the Goritza Hills, the cliff-bound headlands near Kavarna and the lakes around Durankulak close to the Romanian border. In addition to providing a broad introduction to the dramatic scenery and diverse culture of Bulgaria, the week should also bring us into contact with an excellent range of exciting bird species, including some real east European specialities and all, hopefully, in warm autumn sunshine!

Our holiday begins in the rugged Rhodope Mountains, where we will be based in the town of Krumovgrad in the wooded Arda River Valley. The Rhodope Mountains are justly famous for their impressive raptor populations and in the ancient, volcanic landscape of jagged peaks, towering cliffs and sparsely vegetated boulder-strewn slopes, we will look for such spectacular species as Golden, Eastern Imperial and Short-toed Eagles, Black, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Long-legged Buzzard, and Saker and Peregrine Falcons. Black Storks are common here too, and small birds include Western Rock Nuthatch, Blue Rock Thrush, Sombre Tit and the elusive Chukar.

Transferring north-eastwards to Pomorie on the Black Sea coast, we will pass close to the meeting place of the borders of Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey. This interesting drive will take us across wooded hills, fertile valleys and stony plains and we can hope to see passage raptors such as Lesser Spotted and Booted Eagles, Honey and Steppe Buzzards, Montagu’s Harrier, Levant Sparrowhawk and both Red-footed Falcon and Hobby. We should also look out for Red-backed and Lesser Grey Shrikes, Bee-eaters and perhaps a late Roller or two on the roadside wires, together with migrant larks and wheatears in the more open areas.

At Pomorie we will explore the extensive wetlands nearby. Between the saline Lake Atanasovsko, with its surrounding saltpans, and the reed-fringed Lake Mandra, with its water meadows and adjacent wooded hills, we can expect to encounter a huge range of birds. Highlights may well include both White and Dalmatian Pelicans, Pygmy Cormorant, Black Stork, Great Egret, Squacco, Purple and Night Herons, Glossy Ibis, Spoonbill, Ruddy Shelduck, Slender-billed and Mediterranean Gulls, Gull-billed Tern and almost any European wader. Amongst the commoner raptors passing through, we will need to keep an eye open for scarcer species such as Spotted Eagle and Pallid Harrier, whilst on the ground we are likely to encounter large numbers of migrant wagtails, pipits and larks.

Leaving Pomorie behind, we will travel north to Kavarna, passing the quaint old Byzantine port of Nesebar, with its numerous churches and ruins, and stopping in the wooded Goritza Hills where Black, Middle Spotted and Grey-headed Woodpeckers all occur and where we might also find a Short-toed Treecreeper or a late migrant Red-breasted or Semi-collared Flycatcher. From Kavarna we will explore the dramatic cliff-bound headland of Kaliakra with its spectacularly positioned castle. On the dry, open, stony steppe-land here we can expect to find Calandra Lark, Stone Curlew and a range of migrants including Bee-eaters, Pied and Isabelline Wheatears, more raptors and various larks, pipits, shrikes and buntings.

Further north still is the shallow, reed-fringed Durankulak Lake where we will spend our last full day. With its reputation for the rare and unusual, we are unlikely to be disappointed. Large numbers of birds are likely to be present here and may well include Dalmatian Pelican, Pygmy Cormorant, Little Bittern, Glossy Ibis, Common Crane, Ferruginous Duck and Caspian Tern, plus Paddyfield, Savi’s, River, Marsh and Moustached Warblers in the fringing reedbeds and scrub. We end the holiday with a flight from Varna back to Sofia and a morning exploring the pine forests of the Vitosha Mountain National Park on the edge of the city. Here we will be searching for Nutcracker, Crossbill and Black Redstart before retracing our steps back to the capital to catch our return flight home.