The Best of Tunisia

Of all north African countries, Tunisia is the old favourite. It is, after all, closer to Europe both geographically and culturally, and offers a stability that has not always been assured by its neighbours. Perhaps most appealing of all though, is its small size; it is simply dwarfed by its massive neighbours Algeria and Libya. It is therefore ideal for a short break, allowing both swift access to the great sand dunes of the Sahara, as well as to its wetlands, woodlands and savannahs. Indeed, for the naturalist, it is refreshing to find that these diverse habitats are so well protected by a well-managed system of national parks.

In the far north of Tunisia, the rugged green hills and valleys are clothed in vineyards, oak woodlands, and tidy towns and villages whose European style only enhances an ambience of rural well-being. It is a landscape similar to that of neighbouring southern Italy, Sardinia and Corsica. To the east lies a lake-land of great appeal to ornithologists, whose flagship is Lake Ichkeul. Further to the south, in the Gulf of Gabes, lie the estuarine mudflats and islands more reminiscent of the south coast of England than of Mediterranean north Africa. Inland of the Gulf sits a remnant of that scenic savannah landscape that was once so widespread across pre-Saharan Africa, and where even this century large game roamed, stalked by such predators as Lion, Leopard and Cheetah. To the south, beyond a rocky and dramatic terrain, the great golden sand dunes of the Grand Erg Oriental, the northernmost vanguard of the creeping Sahara, welcome us with spring warmth at the climax of our holiday.

We begin our tour with a 2-night stay in the pleasant northern town of Bizerte, an ideal base from which to explore the nearby Lake Ichkeul National Park, and pleasantly removed from the bustle of modern Tunis. Lake Ichkeul, like all the Tunisian lakes, offers a crucial staging post and watering hole for trans-Saharan migrants. It is, however, particularly special, for it not only lies in a strategic position at the northern tip of Tunisia — a first pit-stop for incoming southbound migrants, and a last-chance saloon for those outgoing northbound birds — but is also unusual in having a most variable salinity, the winter rains ensuring a largely freshwater content for much of the year, whilst its salinity is greatly increased during the summer. Lake Ichkeul National Park has the further attraction of a wide variety of habitats, and during our full day spent in the park, we will visit the forests and rocky crags of Mount Ichkeul, haunt of Barbary Partridge and Blue Rock Thrush. We will enjoy the marshes and pastures around the lake where egrets, herons and White Storks feed amongst the feral Water Buffalo that have long grazed the area. At the water’s edge we will find Spoonbills, Greater Flamingoes and a variety of ducks and waders, whilst overhead hunt birds of prey — Long-legged Buzzards, Black-shouldered Kites, Ospreys and Marsh Harriers amongst others. With luck we may even find the resident and endangered White-headed Duck, a speciality of the Tunisian lakes.

Heading east next, via the wader-rich wetlands and migration hotspot of Cap Bon, we spend two nights in the coastal town of Korba. This will allow us to explore the mudflats and estuarine habitats nearby. A huge number of waders winter here, together with high numbers of Black-necked Grebes, Caspian and Gull-billed Terns, and Slender-billed and Audouin’s Gulls; a rewarding time is therefore assured. Further south lie Tunisia’s scenic steppes and savannahs. Reminiscent of east Africa, this landscape is a far cry from those breezy mudflats. Here, in Bouhedma National Park, we will be able to enjoy watching some of Tunisia’s larger mammals, several of them successfully reintroduced since their extinction in the region earlier this century. Solitary Addax, herds of Scimitar-horned Oryx, and smaller numbers of both Dama and Dorcas Gazelles, as well as a number of other more elusive mammals, all occur in Bouhedma. The magnificent backdrop created by the less accessible mountainous part of the park will please any photographers amongst our party, whilst the acacia scrub holds such attractive species as Southern Grey Shrikes and Moussier’s Redstarts amongst others.

Our penultimate destination, and for many the highlight of the tour, will be the desert. We will be based for two nights in the town of Douz, the self-proclaimed ‘gateway to the Sahara’ and once an important stop on the trans-Saharan caravan routes. We will enjoy a dawn excursion by 4x4 to enjoy the warm, golden dunes of the Sahara and the shattering silence of the desert ... at the most productive times of the day for birds. There could be few better bases from which to enjoy such avian desert specialities as Cream-colored Courser, Brown-necked Raven, Desert Warbler, Desert Sparrow and Desert, Hoopoe and Temminck’s Horned Larks. Leaving Douz, we head to the coast for an overnight stay on Djerba Island, in preparation for our scheduled journey home. On the way we will pass through Matmata, site of the troglodyte dwellings of the local Berbers, encountering such species here as Black Wheatear, and both House and Rock Buntings.