Armenia - Spring Birds & Flowers

Nestling in the snowcapped Caucasian Mountains and overlooked by Mount Ararat just over the border in Turkey, Armenia is a gem of a natural history destination. Despite its small size, not much bigger than Wales, and the fact that it is landlocked, this former Soviet Republic is home to over two-thirds of Europe’s regularly occurring bird species, including many that are rare or difficult to find elsewhere, and boasts a fantastically diverse flora reflecting a location at the meeting point between Europe and Asia. Unusually in a region where the Moslem faith predominates, Armenia is a Christian country and its capital, Yerevan, bustles with a lively juxtaposition of old churches, a thriving jazz scene, and such reminders of the Soviet era as the impressive Republic Square, while at weekends the huge and atmospheric ‘vernissage’ open-air flea market attracts locals and tourists. Elsewhere, 13th century bridges, and well preserved ‘caravanserais’ — stopovers for traders plying the silk route in the 14th century — serve as fascinating reminders of Armenia’s long history and strategic location. As well as offering a wealth of birdlife, as yet little-explored by Westerners, the country is home to many interesting Armenian Orthodox churches and monasteries, some dating back as far as the 9th century, such as Haghartsin near Dilijan, and Sevanavank, which enjoys a scenic location on a promontory extending into Lake Sevan.

Following an early morning arrival in Yerevan we begin our exploration by visiting Mount Aragats which, at 3,190 metres, is the highest of Armenia’s mountains. With each change of altitude we will encounter a different selection of birds, beginning with White-throated Robins and the distinctive local race of Bluethroat at lower levels before entering the windswept world of Horned Larks, Alpine and Radde’s Accentors, Rufous-tailed Rock Thrushes and White-winged Snowfinches at higher elevations. This alpine region also offers us the chance to see some of the special local plants, including Fritillaria caucasica, Orchis stevenii, Orchis schelvcornikova, Gladiolus tenuis and Scilla armenia. Throughout this largely unspoilt and sparsely populated country, bird of prey populations remain healthy, with several eagle species, Lammergeier and Levant Sparrowhawk likely to be among the highlights. Our 9-day tour covers each of the country’s main habitat types but, being such a small country with generally good infrastructure, travelling times between areas are usually short, allowing us to maximise the amount of time spent in the field.

Next we exchange mountains for wetlands as we drive to the Armash Fish Ponds, Armenia’s premier area for waterbirds where attractions include breeding Pygmy Cormorant, plus Marbled, White-headed and Ferruginous Ducks. This wonderful complex of lakes and marshland is teeming with birds and other highlights could include Glossy Ibis, White-tailed Lapwing, White-winged Black Tern, and such passerines as Moustached, Great Reed and Paddyfield Warblers. Meanwhile the surrounding countryside holds Menetries’ and Upcher’s Warblers as well as a small colony of exotic Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and some of Armenia’s rarer plants, including Salvia grossheimii, Gladiolus atrovioleceus and Vicia cappadocica.

We again turn our attention to the mountains during a couple of days based in Yeghegnadzor. Close to the town lies Noravank, one of Armenia’s best-known churches, situated in a narrow gorge by the Amaghu River. From Yeghegnadzor we will journey to Mount Gdnasar in search of the elusive Caspian Snowcock and a fine selection of montane species such as Lammergeier, Red-fronted Serin, Crimsonwinged Finch and Wallcreeper. Then we will transfer to Dilijan, stopping en route to scan Lake Sevan, the largest lake in Armenia and a nesting site for the rare Armenian Gull. Here we may also see Iris paradoxa, Cleome ornithopodioides and Gypsophila elegans. During our 2-night stay in Dilijan, we will look for Caucasian Black Grouse on an early morning visit to their favourite display areas, and walk through verdant deciduous forests where Green Warblers, Redstarts and both Semi-collared and Red-breasted Flycatchers will be defending their summer territories and feeding young.

Our tour of Armenia concludes with two further nights based in the capital, from which, before it is time to leave this small but fascinating country, we will enjoy yet more exciting birding and botanising during visits to nearby Garni and Geghard where, in a landscape of steppe and rocky gorges, we will hope to encounter Finsch’s and Isabelline Wheatear, Roller, Lesser Grey Shrike, Bimaculated Lark and Rose-coloured Starling, as well as such plants as Alkanna orientalis, the bellflower Campanula choziatowskyi, Achillea filipendulina, the scabious Scabiosa micrantha and Lotus glebelia.