The Island of Samos

The beautiful Greek island of Samos lies in the eastern Aegean Sea, just a mile across the strait that separates it from the Turkish mainland, and close to the ancient site of Ephesus. Similar in size and shape to the Isle of Wight, Samos is a rugged island with two mountain ranges — the Kerkes and Ambelos — rising to nearly 1,500 metres. These ensure the island remains relatively green and fertile throughout the year, in contrast to the more barren, less mountainous neighbouring islands. They also contribute to an extremely varied landscape, and a wide range of habitats. These attract many migrant birds for, like nearby Lesbos, Samos lies on the main migration route along the Turkish coast. Bee-eaters will be amongst a range of colourful migrants we enjoy, whilst in the mountains we should find a good variety of resident birds of prey. The island’s varied habitats also support a rich and unique spring flora comprising a mix of eastern Mediterranean plants as well as localised montane species.

Samos, thankfully, remains comparatively little-visited and undeveloped. Hills are crowned with old churches and monasteries, and unspoiled mountain villages still foster a time-honoured lifestyle, offering travellers a warm welcome in traditional village tavernas. Best of all, a network of ancient tracks, many of them paved, allow us to explore the island as much as possible on foot as we search for and enjoy its natural history from our hotel in Karlovassi in the north-west of the island. From this excellent harbour base we will first explore the nearby coast and headland along to Potami. Here, in the Cistus scrub, we should find such orchids as Orchis italica, Ophrys fusca and Ophrys speculum, as well as Gladiolus illyricus and the strange Clathrus ruber, a bright red fungus. On the shore are Yellow Horned-poppies, whilst Cory’s Shearwaters may be observed gliding out at sea. A damp area, where a stream joins the sea, proves excellent for dragonflies and damselflies, and spectacular butterflies such as Swallowtails complement the fine flora.

On another day we will walk further, towards the two bays of Mikro and Megalo Seitani, following a path that hugs a spectacular and wild coastline. Audouin’s and Mediterranean Gulls, as well as Blue Rock Thrush, Blackeared Wheatear and Black-headed Bunting, are likely to be amongst the day’s highlights, together with such new plants as Swordleaved Helleborine, Helichrysum and Dracunculus vulgaris. We will search, too, for the chameleons which are found here.

On the south-eastern corner of the island, close to Turkey, is a seasonal lake at Psili Amos. In spring this is home to Ruddy Shelducks, occasional flamingoes (presumably visiting from nearby Turkey), and many passage migrants, waders and other waterbirds. It is also a key staging post for many migrants, so virtually anything can make an appearance. Plants are also abundant and we will look for orchids such as Pyramidal, Orchis anatolica and the local Horned Woodcock, (Ophrys scolopax ssp. cornuta) amongst the carpets of Crown Daisy. We will combine this excursion with a visit to Pythagorion’s interesting and ancient ruins which, also being surrounded by flowers, are likely to satisfy even the most single-minded botanists amongst us!

The lower slopes of the Ambelos provide good easy walking. Here streamside meadows hold an excellent flora and a wide variety of dragonflies and damselflies. Spring plants include Paeonia mascula, Anemone blanda, Lithodora hispidula, Scilla bifolia and Broad-leaved Helleborine. The song of Nightingales fills the air in this picturesque region and our progress may be marked by the scolding rattle of Sardinian Warblers in the scrub and perhaps the song-flight of a Rüppell’s Warbler. We will also explore other foothill regions, particularly along the south coast, looking for such birds as Honey Buzzard, Long-legged Buzzard, Bonelli’s Eagle and Black-headed Bunting and such new plants as Orchis fragrans, Sawfly Orchid and Honeywort. At a higher altitude, the rocky plateau at the summit of Mount Karvouni rears up above the pine forest and can be reached by a good path. Here we are in a very different world; plants cling to rocky crevices in this typical alpine habitat and many sport the intense colours of high mountain plants, veronicas, saxifrages, geraniums and erodiums being particularly obvious. Birds of these higher elevations include Chukar, Buzzard, Short-toed Eagle and Goshawk. There is also much to see on the walk to the summit, in particular a variety of orchids including Late Spider, Orchis mascula ssp. pinetum, Orchis tridentata, Dactylorhiza romana, Neotinea maculata and Violet Limodore.

After our week-long exploration of Samos by means of day walks and other excursions, we will have experienced a sound introduction to the diverse delights of the island and its wide range of wildlife, yet without exhausting the sheer variety it has to offer.