Tailormade Holidays in The Gambia

Makasutu Cultural Forest is a simply wonderful reserve. Excursions by both boat and foot offer a unique perspective from which to delve deeper into areas of gallery and palm forest, mangrove-fringed tidal creeks, rice fields, grasslands and wetlands, searching for the plethora of wildlife they support. Avifauna is plentiful and varied, with herons, egrets, waders, kingfishers, bush-shrikes, raptors and glossy starlings all present in good numbers, plus a stunning kaleidoscope of sunbirds, rollers, bee-eaters and turacos. Mornings are particularly spectacular; as dawn breaks, the forest comes alive with the sound of bird song and calls. African Golden Orioles produce melodious whistled phrases from the upper canopy, while Senegal Parrots dash past excitedly in a whirl of colour. Other wildlife also abounds, with crocodiles and mongoose resting beside the river and monitor lizards winding their lazy way through the undergrowth, whilst Guinea Baboons and Red Patas Monkeys pass by overhead. Numerous fabulous butterflies glide through the vegetation, many with enchanting names such as Striped Policeman, African Spirit and White Lady Swallowtail.

A visit to Makasutu combines well with excursions into surrounding areas. Local tidal creeks and mudflats provide ideal wintering habitat for a host of waders including Whimbrels, Common Sandpipers and Redshanks, miles away from the icy grip of Northern Europe where they breed. Fiddler crabs busy themselves at low tide, darting frantically over the exposed mud as they seek refuge from marauding egrets, while the over-hanging branches of riverside trees provide suitable vantage points for insect-catching birds, all the time keeping a watchful eye out for raptors. From the depths of the forest, a soft call signals the presence of a Pearl-spotted Owlet and overhead Ospreys - many from the UK - drift by.

The Kembujeh and Nambikala rice paddies offer plentiful egrets, crakes and wading birds, and Scarlet-Chested, Splendid and Beautiful Sunbirds may reveal themselves, alongside the fabulous Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike. Nearby bushes attract Yellow-billed Shrike, Fine-spotted Woodpecker and Hoopoe, whilst open grasslands provide good hunting grounds for insectivorous species. Amongst the trees lurk Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Violet Turaco and Greater Honeyguide. At Kubeneh, the Senegal Parrot and the Piapiac - a bizarre looking corvid – can be seen.

Designated in 1968, the Abuko National Reserve was The Gambia’s first protected reserve and, despite being only 110 hectares, holds a terrific variety of wildlife. Located to the south of the bustling town of Serekunda, the reserve is well visited, resulting in many of the species being very confiding, providing fantastic photographic opportunities. Following well-marked paths through dense forest, one discovers a series of small pools where Hamerkop wade in the shallows and Black-headed Herons preen in adjacent palms. Over the water Fanti Saw-wings swoop low to drink and catch insects. The banks of the pools attract monitor lizards that bask in the sunshine before creeping away from view, rustling the dry leaves as they do, whilst crow sized Giant Kingfishers reside in the depths of the shadows.

The woodland here can be very productive; a patient wait by a shallow pool may reveal African Thrush, Acanta Francolin, camaropteras, bush robins and perhaps the scarce Western Bluebill, a red-and-black finch with a huge bill. With luck Red-billed Firefinches, Lavender Waxbills, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus and Blue-spotted Wood Doves may also make an appearance. Common Wattle-eyes call throughout the woodland, whilst African Goshawk, Lizard Buzzards and other raptors are also possible, as well as such delights as African Pygmy Kingfishers, Little Greenbuls, Grey-headed Bristlebills, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Collared Sunbirds and Black-necked Weavers. Meanwhile, Red Colobus and Green Vervet Monkeys are both present, and are often very approachable. In the thicker, taller trees striking Green Turacos and Violet Turacos reside. Despite their bright colours, this species can be very cryptic, only revealing its fabulous crimson-red wing feathers in flight.

Abuko can be accessed from either the coast or such inland locations as Mandina Lodge, making it a versatile option for inclusion in a Gambian itinerary.

A visit to the coastal savannah at Tanji is often considered a highlight of a Gambian tour. A walk to the beach will take one through a mosaic of habitats including scrub, mature trees, mangroves, creeks and open grasslands, revealing Vieillot’s and Bearded Barbets, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Black-crowned Tchagra, Yellow-crowned Gonolek, Variable Sunbird and Oriole Warbler, whilst Black-shouldered Kites soar overhead. Along the shoreline, flocks of gulls and terns can be found loafing on the beach, with powerful Kelp Gulls standing out from the smaller, more common, Grey-headed Gulls. Colourful fishing boats land here with their day’s catches, and out on the sandbar Sandwich, Royal, Caspian and Lesser Crested Terns are all possible. The variety of birdlife here is rich, and includes many familiar faces from northern Europe, such as Ringed Plovers, godwits, Whimbrel, Curlew, Turnstone and Sanderling. Gannets may even be seen near the coast, having travelled down from their breeding colonies in France and the UK.

Slightly inland from Tanji, the forests of Brufut are also worth investigation. Here, sugar feeders often attract Vitelline Masked Weavers, Village Weavers, Black-billed Wood Doves, Laughing Doves, Blackcap Babblers, Lavender Waxbills, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus, African Thrush and Common Bulbuls. Ornate butterflies such as Elegant Acraea and Striped Policeman take advantage of the fabulously coloured flowers, and drier areas of woodland may reveal the superbly camouflaged Long-tailed Nightjar, which rests amongst leaf-litter during the daylight hours.

With pleasant temperatures, year-round sunshine, warm hospitality and miles upon miles of palm-fringed, white sand, The Gambia's Atlantic coastline offers some wonderful options for those looking to spend some time relaxing, or scanning for the area's plethora of birdlife. There are  many lovely locations to choose from, each with their own appeal, ranging from luxury resorts and busy fishing villages to tranquil, isolated beaches where morning strolls will be interrupted only by the calls of the pelicans as they glide along the shoreline in search of their next meal, and further still, to rugged, rocky cliffs with dramatic views of waves rolling in off the Atlantic. With the international airport easily accessible, a few days of relaxation along the coast is the perfect way to end a Gambian tour. 

Following the path less travelled, venturing into The Gambia’s interior along the Gambia River corridor – often referred to as the ‘spine of The Gambia’ - dotted with friendly villages and fields of millet and watermelon, is a wonderful experience. This allows travellers to experience the ‘real Gambia’, away from the more tourism-focussed western region, and offers a superb array of national parks and reserves. However, one should not expect luxury hotels in the depths of these lush, riverside tropical forests. Here, as well as amongst the drier savannah areas, a myriad of enticing wildlife awaits the more adventurous naturalist. Hippopotamus can be seen bathing in the shallows, alongside watchful, beady-eyed crocodiles, Monitor Lizards wander the shoreline and primates make their way through the canopies, but the real stars of the show are the birds. A spectacular diversity of species can be enjoyed in these less-visited areas, and for those with an interest in photography, opportunities abound. Just a few of the highlights one might hope to find along the river corridor include Senegal Thick-knee, Grey Kestrel, Bearded Barbet, vibrant Malachite and Pied Kingfishers, Wattled and Black-headed Lapwings, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater and Hammerkop. Further from the water, as the environment becomes drier and opens up into savannah, an entirely different array of species await. This extraordinary region can be explored by both land and boat, and for the keen naturalist, we strongly recommend considering including The Gambia’s interior on your itinerary.   

Bordering The Gambia on three sides, Senegal, with its year-round warm climate, excellent French-inspired cuisine and culture, relaxed pace, superb beaches and wonderful array of wildlife, makes for a fantastic extension to a Gambian wildlife holiday.

Supporting some 600 bird species and some superb national parks and reserves, Senegal has much to offer the keen naturalist. For those with an interest in mammals, the Foret de Sangako offers good chances for an array of species, including Patas Monkeys and Western Red Colobus. North of the Gambian border, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of The Sine Saloum Delta marks the confluence of the rivers Sine and Saloum, and comprises a number of wildlife reserves. Here the waterways, mangrove-fringed coastal lagoons and islands, alongside expansive forests and grasslands, support a plethora of avifauna, including many interesting raptors such as the African Hawk Eagle, Dark Chanting Goshawk and Grasshopper Buzzard, alongside countless water birds including such delights as African Spoonbill and Black-crowned Night Heron.

Just south of the Delta, and easily accessible from Banjul in The Gambia, the beautiful village of Toubacouta is another Naturetrek favourite. Offering access to some world-renowned birding opportunities, the village itself also allows one to become fully immersed in traditional Senegalese life and culture. Colourful craft markets bustle with life, scents of delicious cuisine waft through the air, and one might even like to take a cooking lesson, or just sit back and watch the world go by. A short distance south of the village, the tranquil, golden sands of Plage d’Or welcome those wishing to relax in the sunshine, perhaps taking advantage of some further coastal birding opportunities or watching the annual oyster harvest in August and September.

With these – and countless more – fabulous locations, Senegal offers a wonderful way to extend a tour of The Gambia, whether it be to experience a different culture, relax or to add more species to your ever-growing list of wildlife sightings!

Set deep within the magnificent and dazzlingly beautiful River Gambia National Park, an archipelago of wonderful islands can be found. Here, on the three largest islands, over 100 rehabilitated chimpanzees live freely, supported by the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project. Wild Chimpanzees became extinct in The Gambia at the beginning of the 20^th century as a result of persecution, hunting and the illegal wild animal market. Established in 1979, this wonderful conservation scheme offers sanctuary to chimpanzees rescued from illegal trade.   

Visitors to the scheme can view the chimpanzees from the water (there is no access permitted onto the islands themselves, to allow the chimpanzees to live freely) via twice daily boat trips. Alongside providing wonderful opportunities to observe the chimpanzees going about their daily activities, an array of other wildlife can also be enjoyed in the park, including Guinea Baboon, Western Red Colobus Monkey, Common Warthog, Nile Crocodile, Hippopotamus, Serval, African Clawless Otter and a fantastic avifauna. Each visit to the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project funds ongoing wildlife conservation.