Panama - Harpy Eagle Special

The Harpy Eagle is an icon of the avian world. One of the world's largest and most powerful of all eagles, it has talons the width of a human wrist and a wingspan of two metres or more. This magnificent raptor is an apex predator, subsisting on a diet of medium-sized canopy-dwelling mammals, roughly 50% sloths and 40% primates.

One of the things that adds greatly to the Harpy's mystique is its secretive nature. Despite its size, it is exceptionally hard to see and very few kills have ever been witnessed in the wild. It is not a raptor to spend large amounts of time soaring, instead remaining for long periods perched in the canopy, watching and waiting. Despite being found widely in the American tropics, it is rarely seen. Indeed, almost the only chance you ever have is to see one at the nest.

In recent years there has been an active nest in Panama's Darién Gap, not far from the wonderful Canopy Camp, run by our friends at Canopy Family, who also own Canopy Tower and Canopy Lodge. The Darién Gap is a break in the Pan-American Highway consisting of a large swathe of swampland and forest within Panama’s Darién Province in Central America and the northern portion of Colombia’s Chocó Department in South America. Long revered by avid birders as a haven for rare species, including the majestic Harpy Eagle (Panama’s national bird), this region is now readily accessible via a highway, which extends south through Panama and into the heart of this bird-rich territory! Harpy Eagles have such a long gestation, with the young remaining in the nest for months and then around the nest for a year or more, that hundreds of visitors have already had a chance to see them. 

Of course, even a tour focused on a single iconic species is inevitably going to offer a host of other delights. One day of our tour is devoted to the Harpy Eagle, and the rest will deluge us with other wonderful birds. We actually start our birding in the Nusagandi Foothills, on the way east from Panama City, where we spend our first night. Here, the environs of Bayano Lake offer us the chance to see some excellent waterbirds such as Bare-throated Tiger-heron, Green-and-rufous Kingfisher and Pied Water-tyrant, while the nearby scrub and forest holds Black Antshrike, Rufous-winged Antwren, Orange-crowned Oriole and even a chance of the extraordinary Blue Cotinga, a neon sign in avian form.

We soon arrive at Canopy Camp, which is based on an African-style safari camp, each tent having full-sized beds, private bathroom facilities with hot water and flush toilets, electricity and a fan. The food is glorious too! Even the garden shows off some tricky species, such as Grey-cheeked Nunlet, White-headed Wren, Pale-bellied Hermit and Ruby Topaz Hummingbird. The local trails are brimming with superb birds, some of the most exciting being Golden-headed Manakin, Barred Puffbird, Tiny Hawk, Double-banded Greytail and King Vulture. The Camp is a great place for nocturnal birds, with Striped, Crested, Barn, Black-and-white and Mottled Owls, as well as Common and Great Potoos. We will search for these alongside, hopefully, some exciting mammals too.

During the next few days, we will visit several areas with different habitats and birds. The paddyfields and marshes around Quebrada Félix Abajo are good for Red-breasted Blackbird, Muscovy Duck and the wonderful Red-billed Scythebill, while Aruza Lagoons hold Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Black-capped Donacobius and lots of herons and kingfishers. Searching from El Salto Road may turn up the gorgeous White-eared Conebill, Blue-and-yellow Macaw and Bare-crowned Antbird, while the Tierra Nueva Foundation is a good spot for the comically impressive Great Curassow, as well as many others such as Chestnut-backed Antbird. On our last day, we visit San Francisco Nature Reserve on the way back to Panama City, where treasures may include Great Jacamar, Tropical Royal Flycatcher and even, with luck, the amazing Wing-banded Antbird.

So, while the eagles will undoubtedly be the stars of the show, the supporting cast is a mighty impressive one!