France - The Dordogne

The Dordogne, one of the major rivers of France, rises from just below Puy Sancy, in the mountains of the Auvergne, and enters the Bay of Biscay by means of the Garonne estuary near Bordeaux. However, it is at the middle of its course, amongst the heartlands of rural southern France, that it is at its most beautiful, meandering so peacefully through wide limestone gorges and rolling hills bedecked with dense oak woodlands. Here, stunning ochre-coloured stone hamlets nestle in the valleys amongst walnut trees and fields of maize and sunflowers, whilst large villages cling precariously to the riverside cliffs or perch fortress-like atop hills and ridges, often huddling around an 18th-century chateau or the ruins of a castle dating back to the Hundred Years War with England.

During our week-long holiday we will be based near Rocamadour, a spectacular medieval village, abbey and castle built into the side of a cliff. Choosing a very pleasant village hotel, we will enjoy good local food and wines, and explore — as much as possible on foot — the varied habitats of the surrounding countryside. In mid May this unspoilt and lovely part of France is a veritable paradise for the keen naturalist. Birds are everywhere, butterflies and other insects abound, whilst a bewildering array of flowering plants provide a sea of colour in meadows, hedgerows and woodland glades. This is southern England in the days before intensive farming and suburban sprawl… only with twice the number of species!

One of the reasons for this great diversity is the varying density of the underlying limestone, a characteristic of this landscape being the spectacular cliffs, formed where the river’s course has been impeded by harder rock. Such broken country suits many birds of prey, including both Red and Black Kites, Honey Buzzard, Hobby, Peregrine, harriers, and even the occasional Booted Eagle, as well as Crag Martin and Alpine Swift. These limestone gorges also support a very rich flora, with orchids being particularly well represented. Most noticeable perhaps, with abundant large spikes, are the strange but beautiful Lizard Orchids, but Man, Military, Lady, Monkey, Burnt-tip, Bee and Fly Orchids are plentiful, together with Red, Sword-leaved and White Helleborines. Many other rare and beautiful plants can also be found, which helps explain the abundance of the many butterflies on the wing at this time of the year. Comma, Southern White Admiral, Cleopatra, Swallowtail, Scarce Swallowtail, Large Tortoiseshell, and numerous different fritillaries and blues are just a few of the species we should see.

Away from the river, the alkaline rocks have eroded to form a stony, mineral-rich red soil that encourages woodland, sparse grazing and just a few small cultivated fields. This is a rolling landscape of small villages and subsistence farming, absolutely brimming with wildlife. Flowery banks are everywhere, with more orchids and other plants, including Field Eryngo (Eryngium campestre), Meadow Clary (Salvia pratensis), Hoary Mullein (Verbascum pulverulentum) and White Flax (Linum suffruticosum), present. The rare cornfield weeds, Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), Corn Buttercup (Ranunculus arvensis) and Corn Cockle (Agrostemma githago), can also sometimes be found in the small fields. This pastoral landcape is the ideal country for Hoopoe, Golden Oriole, Wryneck, Melodious Warbler and more birds of prey, while the beautiful song of the Nightingale seems to emanate from practically every piece of scrub. Butterflies and other insects are again very abundant, whilst Green and Wall Lizards scamper away from our footsteps.

A little to the north-east of our base we will also explore the area where the river emerges from the hard volcanic rocks of the Massif Central plateau, to flow through the charming small market towns of Argentat and Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne. The predominant schist and sandstone rocks here give rise to acid soils, with a mixture of oak and Sweet Chestnut woodland, sandy heathland and damp boggy areas so markedly different in character from the habitats of our previous forays. Goshawk may be seen displaying on fine days and we have a chance of an elusive Hawfinch, Cirl Bunting or Firecrest. The flora is not so rich, but specialities like Summer Lady’s Tresses (Spiranthes aestivalis) and Spiked Rampion (Phyteuma spicatum) are likely to be seen. There is also a rare outcrop of Serpentine rock which has its own interesting flora.

This holiday offers the chance to enjoy a great diversity of species amongst idyllic rural scenery of a character which is fast disappearing from the rest of Europe. It also provides the opportunity to view and appreciate the superb architecture of this region, while also, of course, sampling the gastronomic delights of the food and drink for which it is justifiably famous.