Tailormade Holidays in Thailand

A couple of hours’ drive south-west of Bangkok, one will come across the city of Phetchaburi; the capital of the Phetchaburi province and the gateway to some of the best birding in south-east Asia. A mosaic of rice fields, agricultural patches, salt pans, intertidal mudflats and mangroves offer a dazzling array of birds year-round – both in terms of species diversity and sheer numbers. The water systems attract a plethora of wetland species. A boat ride out to the sand spit at Laem Phak Bia is often rewarded with both Malaysian and White-faced Plovers, as well as seabirds such as Pallas’s Gull and Greater and Lesser Crested Terns. Within the Pak Thale-Laem Phak Bia area, which sits along the East Asian-Australasian Flyway, highlights undoubtedly include the critically endangered Spoon-billed Sandpiper, which migrates from its Russian tundra breeding grounds to its main wintering grounds in south and south-east Asia. This is the most threatened shorebird on the flyway; approximately 10 Spoon-billed Sandpipers are recorded in the Inner Gulf of Thailand each year, with highest records in Pak Thale-Laem Phak Bia.

Many other rare visitors have also been recorded in this region, including Asiatic Dowitcher, Nordmann’s Greenshank, Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers, Long-toed and Red-necked Stints, and Broad-billed Sandpiper. Chances of such rarities, alongside a myriad other species, makes this a superb wader-watching destination. Phetchaburi is a wonderful area for raptors, too, with good chances of the formidable Greater Spotted Eagle, amongst a whole raft of others.

Most birders visit the area in the dry season; however, the summer months should not be discounted, as some fantastic species can be seen parading their full breeding plumage, including Oriental Pratincole and the magnificent Javan Pond Heron. This is also an excellent time for Black, Cinnamon and Yellow Bitterns, alongside flocks of Spot-billed Pelican and all three of Thailand’s weaver species.

A visit to the coast can be easily combined with a couple of days birding the Kaeng Krachan National Park.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Khao Yai National Park comprises 542,000 acres of hills, with dry deciduous areas on the lower slopes and damp evergreen forest at higher elevations, interspersed by patches of open grassland. The reserve represents some of the best remaining tracts of forest in Thailand and is a haven for all forms of wildlife, and also enjoys generally cooler weather year-round, making for a superb visit. 

The flora here is impressive, butterfly enthusiasts will find scores of brightly coloured insects, and herpetologists will delight in searching for the many reptiles, which range from Flying Lizards and Geckos to various snakes. Amongst the mammals are herds of Sambar Deer, Muntjac and Pig-tailed Macaque, as well as raucous Lar or White-handed Gibbons, and each evening millions of Wrinkle-lipped Bats emerge from their roosting caves to extend like a plume of smoke over the forest; an absolutely breathtaking natural spectacle.

The diversity of birds, too, is impressive, with over 200 species recorded. As with all forests, Khao Yai does not easily reveal its avian secrets, but a degree of patience will be rewarded with some wonderful sights. Some species are widely distributed throughout the reserve, others confined to particular elevations or habitats. Highlights include Red Junglefowl, Crested Serpent Eagle, Thick-billed Green Pigeon, Green-billed Malkoha, Banded Kingfisher, Asian Fairy-bluebird, White-rumped Shama, Red-headed and Orange-breasted Trogons, Black Eagle, Blue Whistling Thrush, Buff-bellied Flowerpecker and Slaty-backed Forktail, alongside the more challenging Siamese Fireback, Silver Pheasant and Coral-bellied Ground Cuckoo to name merely a few! The arrival of mixed species feeding flocks is often presaged by the manic chuckling of laughingthrushes, whilst Racket-tailed Drongos swoop from tree to tree as they capture insects disturbed by the flock. Soon the canopy is filled with dozens of constantly moving small birds - for several hectic minutes, binoculars move frantically from one new species to another!

Among the leaf debris of the forest floor, one may chance upon a Blue Pitta quietly scratching at the litter, and tapping noises above may reveal one of several woodpecker species. The park also witnesses an evening gathering of Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters, whilst at dusk, Great-eared Nightjars glide over the forest.

Doi Inthanon is the highest mountain in Thailand, rising to over 2,500 metres. Dry dipterocarp forests of the lower slopes transition into evergreen tracts nearer the summit, and this variety of altitudes make for some exciting wildlife watching. Indeed, Inthanon has a remarkable reputation as one of the best birdwatching locations in northern Thailand, and a small patch of swamp near the radar station which crowns the summit has produced many rare birds.

At the summit, Himalayan Shortwing, Pygmy Cupwing and Snow-browed Flycatcher might be sighted. Higher elevation highlights reflect a species composition similar to the Himalayan evergreen forests, such as Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Silver-eared Mesia, Chestnut-tailed Minla and Black-backed Sibia, and peevish churring calls may reveal a curious Slaty-bellied Tesia bouncing from branch to branch. Flocks of Eyebrowed Thrushes can be seen foraging for berries, and perhaps other scarcer visitors from northern Asia may reveal themselves, such as Grey-sided Thrush.

Descending to the forested slopes of middle and lower elevations, mixed species feeding flocks appear, and one may enjoy Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, six or more species of bulbul, woodpeckers, barbets, warblers and a selection of flycatchers including Little Pied, Hill Blue, Verditer and Large Niltava. Other surprises might include a shrike-sized Collared Falconet, Hume’s Treecreeper or perhaps a Chinese Francolin uttering his monotonous 'song' from a concealed perch. Wherever there are suitable clearings in the forest, Olive-backed Pipits quietly search for insects below the trees. These spend the winter months in Thailand, alongside the Yellow-browed and Hume’s Warblers which constantly call from the canopy, and the shy Dark-sided Thrush which merges so readily into the background of dead leaves with its marvellously cryptic plumage. Phylloscopus warblers also abound in the forest, with over a dozen species possible, and enthusiasts will find plenty of wingbars and supercillaries to sort through. Slaty-backed Forktails add their grace and beauty to little bubbling streams and Black Eagles occasionally soar on broad wings over the canopy.

Aside from birds, Doi Inthanon is unlikely to offer many mammals apart from squirrels, but lovers of butterflies will delight in a profusion of insects.

Kaeng Krachan is Thailand's largest national park and, due to its position on the border of Myanmar, provides an extension to one of Asia’s largest remaining tracts of relatively undisturbed forest. The park supports a vast and truly diverse array of wildlife, including many Asian rarities.

An impressive list of mammals inhabit the park, including roadside troops of Stump-tailed Macaque, Sambar Deer, Golden Jackal, Crab-eating Mongoose, Sun Bear, Indochinese Leopard, Black Giant Squirrel, Malayan Porcupine, Large Indian Civet, White-handed Gibbon, Yellow-throated Marten and Dusky Langur, as well as both Guar and Asian Elephant, which can be seen visiting several salt licks – a wonderful opportunity for photography. Larger mammals in the park can prove elusive, due to the forest setting, and require a degree of patience and luck to see; the dry season (approximately February-May) usually offers better chances, as mammals come to roadside ponds.

Birding in the park is truly magnificent, with over 500 species recorded and, as such, this is considered one of Thailand’s premier birding locations. A number of trails and roads criss-cross the park, from which highlights might include Grey Peacock-Pheasant, Greater Coucal, Paddyfield Pipit, Indochinese Roller, White-throated and Banded Kingfishers, Sooty-headed Bulbul, to name merely a few! All seven broadbill species and seven of Thailand’s 14 hornbill species can also be found in the park.

Herpetologists, too, will not be disappointed – the park supports approximately 120 reptile species, many of which are snakes. Many pit viper species are present: the southern variation of Pope’s Pit Viper, White-lipped Pit Viper and Himalayan Mountain Pit Viper, as well as King Cobra, Siamese Cat Snake and Red-necked Keelback. Ponds and salt licks usually prove reliable locations for a good variety of snakes, and other reptiles such as the rare Asian Forest Tortoise and more common Clouded Monitor can also be seen.

Kaeng Krachan is also a superb location for butterflies, with approximately 300 species present. Mineral-rich pools can often yield hundreds or thousands of butterflies at a single time, predominantly during the dry season – a truly breathtaking sight.

Doi Lang is a mountain ridge within Doi Pha Hom Pok National Park, in the far northern reaches of Thailand. Doi Lang is essentially divided into two areas; east and west, each with distinctive habitats. The western side of the ridge is the more arid of the two, characterised by high altitude areas of open pine forest at higher altitudes, interspersed with some pine/oak tracts in places and some agricultural land at lower levels. Conversely, the eastern side is wetter, and includes extensive tracts of moist pine forest, as well as offering spectacular, far-reaching views into Myanmar. This is wild Thailand; a rugged, upland landscape and, being so far north, the area also provides an exciting array of avifauna, with many species not possible across the rest of the country.

Doi Lang is vast and, with such a variety of habitats present, offers some superb birding, including some of the best chances in the world for the beautiful Mrs Hume's Pheasant, as well as the Giant Nuthatch. Other exciting species include Red-tailed Laughingthrush, Scarlet-faced Liocichla, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Spot-winged Grosbeak, Coral-billed Scimitar Babbler, Long-tailed Sibia, a selection of parrotbills, an exciting array of owls, and Crested Finchbill, with Scarlet Finch, Whiskered Yuhina, Rusty-naped Pitta, Orange-flanked Bush Robin, Black-throated Parrotbill and Himalayan Cutia also possible, alongside the gorgeous Black-throated Bushtit. A plethora of migrants join the resident selection between November and March, including a fine selection of raptors and many rarities each year, adding further excitement to a visit!

This is a magnificent site for inclusion in a birding tour of Thailand, offering a wonderfully different array of species to those typical of the southern parks, and warrants a good few days to do it justice. The western side is readily accessible by car, and good accommodation can be found in the towns of Fang and Tha Ton.