Latest News - November, 2006

Stephen Mills - naturalist, author, wildlife film-maker and Special Consultant to EIA - provides an insight into the work of EIA

When I published my book on Tigers in 2004 I felt optimistic about their future, especially in India. I’d just finished a joyous TV filming trip in Bandhavgarh and Kanha, where we had clocked up 88 sightings in a month and filmed 10 different Tigers in a single morning. But a year later many of us were in despair. A wave of Tiger poaching for skins had culminated in the complete depopulation of Sariska Tiger Reserve and the decimation of numbers in Panna, Ranthambore and several lesser known reserves.

In the summer of 2005, EIA teamed up with local investigators from the Wildlife Protection Society of India to find out where so many skins were going. Their journey ended in Tibet and their subsequent photographs, films and reports astonished the world. What they discovered was a new fashion amongst Tibetans to demonstrate their status and wealth by wearing whole Tiger skins at their huge openair horse festivals. There were hundreds of fresh skins on display. Consequently, the Dalai Lama, disturbed that Buddhists might be driving a market that was bringing one of the world’s most endangered and charismatic animals close to extinction, urged his people to stop wearing the skins. And how did they respond? In widespread displays of remorse they burned them. By some reckonings, some $2 million worth of tiger skins have gone up in smoke.

The problem is not yet solved. Poaching continues and when EIA/WPSI returned to Tibet and China in August 2006, they found that, while far fewer Tibetans were wearing skins, some of the slack had been taken up by wealthy Chinese. What the story illustrates, however, is the value of up-to-date, accurate information. Gathering such data is what EIA does best, often undercover, often in dangerous or difficult situations. In recent months EIA agents have been threatened, arrested and imprisoned without charge, had their tyres slashed and much worse.

The environmental crimes that EIA tries to expose can poison the roots of government and affect the lives of millions of people. This is large scale organised crime, netting billions of dollars a year and second only to drugs and arms smuggling in its capacity to rob or damage the world community. This is why EIA tries always to engage with governments to achieve change, if necessary behind the scenes but always with inviolable data. In November 2005, for instance, EIA suspected a number of Chinese companies were smuggling huge amounts of illegally produced CFCs (Chloroflurocarbons) that destroy the earth’s stratospheric ozone layer. Through a clever sting operation, investigators were able to film the entire smuggling process. Instead of going for a public blitz, EIA took the film and report to the Chinese authorities and the Montreal Protocol, the treaty that governs the phase out of CFCs. The result is that China has clamped down on the smugglers, put new regulations in place and taken a lead in establishing major new regional co-operative customs initiatives.

Unfortunately, avoiding publicity, though sometimes strategically essential, keeps us poor. EIA’s whale and dolphin campaign has, for example, managed to persuade over 3,000 supermarkets in Japan to stop selling whale meat. This helps to disprove the claims of a heavy demand for the product by which Japanese whaling tries to justify itself. But the supermarkets asked EIA in return not to publicise this agreement widely, with the result that the campaign remains one of our most under-funded albeit effective arms.

Founded in 1984 and with fewer than 30 employees, EIA punches far above its weight. Apart from tigers, ozone and whales, EIA works on ivory smuggling (it was instrumental in getting the ban on the international ivory trade agreed in 1989) and illegal logging in South-east Asia. In the last year EIA has tracked illegally sourced hardwoods to the shop floors of leading UK and European DIY chains and provided data that led to the biggest crackdown on timber smugglers in Indonesian history. We greatly value our relationship with Naturetrek and the chance it gives us to befriend so many likeminded people. In a suffocating world even travel is no longer an innocent activity. Each of us has to make travel count and Naturetrek customers can do that by supporting organisations like EIA that work every day for a better environment.

Last year Naturetrek's EIA tours raised over £8,000 to assist the charity. Fund-raising tours planned for 2007 (10% going to EIA) include:

Wild India — Panna National Park (10 days)
departs 2nd Mar & 23rd Nov ’07 Cost: £1,795

India’s Big Game (9 days — Kaziranga)
departs 22nd Feb & 15th Nov ’07 Cost: £1,795

Borneo’s Orang-utans (11 days)
departs 7th Sep ’07 Cost: £2,195

You can help support the EIA gain greater protection for threatened and endangered species and their habitats. To find out more visit their website.

As we emphasize in the report on our recent anniversary cruise to Spitsbergen (click here), the joy of an exclusive Naturetrek charter is the unity, camaraderie, sense of purpose and quality of achievement shared by like-minded Naturetrek clients during a dedicated wildlife cruise. It is also the small numbers that we take on our charters, generally between 15 and 50. For those of you wishing to join us, we list below further exclusive Naturetrek charters. With space limited, early booking is recommended (expert cruise advice being given by Naturetrek’s Paul Stanbury, on 01962 733051).

Professor Molchanov in Spitsbergen by Paul Stanbury

Spitsbergen – Realm of the Polar Bear!
Cost: from £3,350
Tue 17th Jul – Sat 28th Jul ’07
Tue 15th Jul – Sat 26th Jul ’08 (Exclusive Charter)

We aim to repeat this year's success with a second exclusive charter of the Professor Molchanov in July 2008. We have opted to travel a little earlier than the well-publicised total solar eclipse since there is no guarantee that either the weather conditions or ice conditions on that day will permit the ship to travel far enough north to witness it. Additionally, wildlife sightings are better in July than August!

Kamchatka & The Islands of the Russian Far East
Cost: from £4,995
Fri 25th May – Sun 10th Jun ’07
Fri 23rd May – Sun 8th Jun ’08 (Exclusive Charter)

This is a wonderful opportunity to visit one of the most inaccessible regions on Earth and enjoy the huge concentrations of seabirds, other wildlife, and the spectacular scenery of the Russian Kuril Islands, Kamchatka Peninsula and the Commander Islands. This is likely to be a very popular charter so please book early to avoid disappointment.

Baja California & The Sea of Cortez
Cost: from £2,695
Wed 28th Feb – Mon 12th Mar ’07 (Exclusive Charter)
Wed 27th Feb – Mon 10th Mar ’08 (Exclusive Charter)

The warm clear waters that surround the Baja Peninsula are home to an unrivalled assemblage of whales and dolphins. This popular cruise takes you down the western coastline of the peninsula, stopping off to visit the friendly Grey Whales of San Ignacio Lagoon, and then round into the sheltered waters of the Sea of Cortez, home to Blue Whales, seabirds and a wealth of other marine-life.

Ecuador & The Galápagos Islands
Cost: from £4,295
NB. All of the following are Exclusive Naturetrek Charters:
Mon 10th Dec – Sat 29th Dec ’07
Mon 14th Jan – Sat 2nd Feb ’08
Mon 11th Feb – Sat 1st Mar ’08
Mon 4th Aug – Sat 23rd Aug ’08
Mon 8th Dec – Sat 27th Dec ’08
Mon 9th – Sat 28th Feb ’09 (Darwin’s 200th Anniversary)

Naturetrek have been operating cruises to the Galápagos for 20 years and have unrivalled experience in the islands. Our 2-week cruise is special, for we avoid the large and luxurious motor vessels by chartering our own vessel, an elegant 16-berth topsail schooner. This gives us the freedom and flexibility to explore Darwin's Islands at our leisure and discover the wealth of wildlife to be found there.

As yet we don't have details for the following two tours but if you are interested please contact the office and leave your details and we will be happy to forward you more information as soon as it becomes available.

Scottish Islands Cost: tba
Early Jun ’08 (Exclusive Charter)

Scotland is blessed with some of the most spectacular seabird colonies in the north Atlantic and, in a world where long-haul travel is so easy, we tend to forget the treasures to be found within our own back yard. This exciting cruise includes Fair Isle, the Shetland Islands, St. Kilda and the Hebrides.

Antarctica, Falklands & South Georgia
Cost: tba
Jan ’09 (Exclusive Charter)

Join us on this ultimate 19-day cruise to the Falklands, South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula. Sailing from Ushuaia in Argentina, the cruise includes the vast King Penguin rookery of South Georgia, the 100,000 Adélie Penguins at Paulet Island and the Wandering Albatross colony at Prion Island (South Georgia).

NB. Special Offer
Prices listed above are based on 2007 costs. Whilst prices may increase for 2008, we will hold 2007 prices for all bookings on 2008 cruises made before 31st January 2007.

A report by David Mills

Having travelled regularly to many of the countries in Africa for over 25 years, it had always been an embarrassing admission that, apart from the odd visit to the Zambian side of the Victoria Falls, I had never actually been to either Zambia (one of Naturetrek’s bestselling African destinations) or Malawi, a country bizarrely devoid of tourists despite being one of the most beautiful and topographically diverse in all of Africa. So, it hasn’t many Lions? But Zambia’s South Luangwa Park, just a 40-minute flight away, is full of them! Combine these two countries in one holiday, as any glance at a map will indicate is eminently logical, and you have the best 2-week holiday in Africa. So now I may excuse my own embarrassingly long delay in visiting these two wonderful countries with… “it’s always important to leave the best until last!”

To settle in to the continent, fly first to Lilongwe, one of the smallest, quietest and most hassle-free of all international airports. If peace and tranquillity is what you are after on a holiday, you’ll get it from the moment you touch down at Lilongwe! A scenic 4-hour drive to the south-west, through the hills along the Mozambique border, brings you to Liwonde National Park. On such a drive, as on most in Malawi, a number of things strike you. The roads are, by African standards, generally in good condition. They are pleasingly free of other traffic. But they are, though, thronged by smiling and colourfully dressed villagers who, amazingly, all seem to be going somewhere, on foot or by bicycle. Malawi is full of friendly people; it is also – for now at least – almost as full of environmentally friendly bicycles!

Liwonde National Park is Malawi’s top gameviewing destination. Situated on the palmlined Shire River, which flows south from the southern end of Lake Malawi into the Zambezi, its riverine forests and bush, backed by a scenic range of hills, offer a range of scenic habitats to explore and a pleasing variety of options (including boat trips, bush walks, night drives and daytime safaris) by which to do so. You are unlikely to see a Lion or a Leopard here, it is true, but a host of creatures includes an abundance of Hippos and Nile Crocodiles, Elephants, Warthog, Waterbuck, Bushbuck, and two of Africa’s finest antelopes, the Sable and the Greater Kudu. Such a variety of habitats also hosts a rich birdlife, with Palm-nut Vulture, Pel’s Fishing Owl and Böhm’s Bee-eater amongst the specialities. The delightful Mvuu Wilderness Camp is our base, its comfortable tented chalets and thatched bar and dining area all overlooking the peaceful Shire River and the wealth of birds and animals that it attracts.

Lake Malawi National Park was the first park in the world to be set aside for the protection of freshwater fish. Set around the rugged, mountainous Cape Maclear peninsula that reaches out into the clear calm waters of Lake Malawi, it includes the idyllic and uninhabited off-shore islands of Domwe and Mumbo – a must for those wishing to visit this vast and unique lake. The scenery here is truly spectacular and, combined with the splendid isolation of the exquisite tented accommodation that we use on these pristine, forested off-shore islands, it is hard to believe that you are not in the middle of the Pacific! Though limited in variety, the birds, mammals and reptiles here can be peacefully enjoyed both on forest walks and by kayaking gently around the islands. But, it is the amazing Cichlids that make Lake Malawi so special – a thousand or more species of colourful tropical fish species from this one genus that congest the clear inshore waters of these protected parts of the lake in their billions! Whether or not you have snorkelled before, you simply must give it a try! 

For a dramatic change in scenery, climate and habitats, a visit to Ku Chawe Inn on the Zomba Plateau should be included. The plateau rises dramatically from the surrounding plains to an altitude of over 1,500 metres, and is accessed via a small winding road that snakes its way up from the old colonial capital of Zomba to the Ku Chawe Inn which perches on the rim of the plateau and commands spectacular views over the surrounding countryside. The cool mountain air here is refreshing, and the walking and birding opportunities from the inn are rewarding.

So, still no Lions. It’s time to take that convenient 40-minute charter from a small ‘international’ airport (Lilongwe) to a tiny one (Mfuwe)! It’s not often that one is blessed not only with the luxury of a private charter flight for an international journey, but also absolutely no border hassles or congested terminals at either end. Bliss!

And the wildlife of South Luangwa National Park? This is indeed one of Africa’s finest wildlife havens. There’s certainly no better place in which to find Leopards and Lions and, amongst the bush and woodlands of this part of the Great Rift Valley, through which flows the seasonal torrent of the great Luangwa River with its numerous attendant channels and ox-bow lakes, an extraordinary wealth of mammals and birds are found. Further, the fact that tourist exploration of this national park extends beyond conventional daytime safaris to night drives and bush walks, all of which can be enjoyed (in the dry season at least) from small but comfortable ‘bush camps’ situated in isolated private concessions in the heart of the park, means that the wildlife experience offered in South Luangwa is second to none. Following David’s visit, our programme of exciting tours has been thoroughly revised and extended. New and existing tours to the region are listed on this page. 

Following David’s visit, our programme of exciting tours has been thoroughly revised and extended. New and existing tours to the region are listed below. Click on each tour to find out more:

Zambia & Malawi – The Best of Africa
A new and irresistible 15-day itinerary combining the wetland wildlife of Malawi’s beautiful Liwonde National Park, the mountain habitats on the Zomba Plateau, the idyllic islands (teeming with tropical fish) of Lake Malawi, and the magnificent game in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park.

Zambia on Foot – Ultimate Africa!
The ultimate 13-day safari, enjoying on foot the mammals, birds and other natural history of Zambia’s magnificent South Luangwa National Park and staying at some of the most exclusive and luxury bush camps in Africa.

Zambia & Malawi – The Best of Africa - A Family Wildlife Adventure
An irresistible 15-day itinerary combining the wetland wildlife of Malawi's beautiful Liwonde National Park, the mountain habitats on the Zomba Plateau, the idyllic islands and enticing waters (teeming with tropical fish) of Lake Malawi and magnificent game in Zambia's South Luangwa National Park.

Zambia – Swamps and South Luangwa
A unique 13-day safari to Kasanka and South Luangwa National Parks, and the remote Bangweulu Swamps, in search of the enigmatic Shoebill and other unusual birds and mammals.

Zambia – A Bargain Birdwatching Tour
A 9-day birding holiday based at a luxury lodge and focusing on the wealth of birds and mammals of the wonderful South Luangwa National Park.

Zambia – A Bargain Mammal Tour
A 9-day mammal-viewing holiday based at a luxury lodge and focusing on the wealth of mammals in South Luangwa National Park.

The Madagascar Pochard which had not seen in the wild since the early nineties and thought to be 'possibly extinct' has been found in a remote part of northern Madagascar.

To read the full story click here or here.

We have launched five new tours this autumn and they are available to book through the website or by phoning the office. For more information click on the following links:

Nepal - A Very Special Offer
A 10-day birdwatching and mammal-viewing tour of the hills of the Kathmandu Valley, the lowland Sal forests of Dharan and the magnificent wetland and grassland habitats of Koshi Tappu, one of Asia's finest birdwatching reserves.

Morocco - A Bald Ibis Break
A relaxing 5-day holiday, based in a comfortable and exclusive beach retreat, to the Souss-Massa National Park, Morocco's finest birdwatching site and home to the endangered Bald Ibis.

Norway & Finland - An Arctic Spring
An 11-day holiday to enjoy the breeding birds of the taiga forests, spectacular fjords and Arctic uplands of Finland and Norway.

Venezuela - Oilbirds, Harpy Eagles & Table Mountains
A 16-day birdwatching and wildlife holiday visiting the Araya and Paria Peninsulas, Oilbird Cave, Guayana Shield and Table Mountains, with an extension to the Angel Falls.

Gabon - Africa's Last Eden
A 12-day holiday to the unspoilt rainforests and pristine beaches of Gabon in search of a wealth and bird and animal life including, for the fortunate, Western Lowland Gorilla, Chimpanzee and Mandrill.

Most of you will be aware that Nepal and the political situation there have been much in the news in recent years. However, we are pleased to report the welcome news of a Maoist ceasefire and figures from sources in Nepal and from British tour operators that indicate tourists are returning to the country in increasing numbers for the coming season. The Nepalese government and the Maoists have recently signed an agreement to permit both Maoists and other political parties to join the government following constitutional elections scheduled for June 2007; finally, we hope that political unrest is at an end and that peace has been restored to this fabulous mountain kingdom.

Central Nepal by David Mills

In many ways, Nepal was the inspiration for Naturetrek and a huge number of our clients have returned there time and time again. Once visited, the spectacular scenery, hospitable people and outstanding wildlife mean that other destinations have a hard act to follow! Our Nepalese staff and tour leaders have become our friends and yours; such expert guides as Tika Ram Giri, Suchit Basnet and Hem Sagar Baral having become amongst the most knowledgeable and respected in the world, with large fan clubs amongst our clientele! Although they have been busy leading our Indian tours recently, they are very much looking forward to leading once again in Nepal and to welcoming all those who have not already visited their country (and, of course, those of you choosing to return!). So, please do give serious consideration to Nepal, for so long one of our most popular and rewarding destinations, and please do remember that we are always delighted to tailor any bespoke extension required to one of our fixed departures.

We offer a unique programme of tours to Nepal, catering for a wide variety of tastes and budgets – something for everyone! If you wish to experience Nepal ‘in style’ our Splendours of Nepal itinerary allows you to visit some of the best hotels, lodges and tented camps in the company of one of our expert guides. This trip is especially suited to couples, families or small groups of friends travelling together and can be arranged on any date to suit you, from September through to June at a cost of £1,985 per person.

Our ever-popular birding and mammal tours have a rather more concentrated theme, as a busy itinerary is packed into a relatively short time! However, do not feel you have to be an expert. Our guides are more than happy to assist everyone. All that is needed is an interest in wildlife!

Check out the following 2007 Nepal departures:
Nepal – A Birdwatching Tour
Nepal – A Mammal Tour
Nepal – Wildlife & Conservation

…or try one of our exciting wildlife treks:
The Langtang Valley of Nepal
Mount Everest & the Gokyo Lakes of Nepal
Nepal - Ibisbill trek
Nepal - A Wildlife Adventure

Tour leader Sinclair Dunnett reports on our 2006 tour

During our 2006 visit to Poland in Winter we all saw Bison (over 50 of them!), Elk, Red and Roe Deer, Wild Boar, Racoon Dog and Red Fox; the latter on almost every day, and very beautiful against the snow. Wolf, Red Squirrel and Brown Hare were also observed by some members of our group, four of whom were lucky enough to see Wolf in daylight from a ‘high seat’ on our day of arrival at Puszcza Romincka. This encouraged four clients to join me in the ‘high seat’ for a planned, all-night vigil on the next night but, after five hours, the lure of a warm bed got the better of my colleagues and the tour leader was left alone! Thus I spent the rest of the night at that ‘high seat’ and was rewarded with two Wolves for a few minutes at 2.30am and the same two – at least, I presume the same two – from 5am to 5.20am. Wild Boar visited too, arriving at this remote spot in their usual exuberant, noisy manner, so different to the Wolves which moved like wraiths. It was fascinating to watch these creatures behaving completely naturally, unaware they were being observed.

I have been leading trips to Poland in winter almost every year since 1985 and this was unquestionably one of the best three or four ever for wildlife – not just for the variety, but for the repeated good views that we had of a number of species. We were particularly fortunate with the clear frosty weather and just the right amount of snow, and the adjacent photos of Peter Price give a wonderful impression of the ambience. The good wildlife showing was partly due to these favourable weather conditions, but also due to minor enhancement to our itinerary to improve our chances of good Bison views – with obvious results! Our bird list was, as to be expected on such a winter trip, fairly modest. However, the quality of views more than made up for this, with fabulous views of Middle Spotted and Grey-headed Woodpeckers (plus several other species) and almost monotonously good views of White-tailed Eagle!

The bonfires, forest feast and horse-drawn sledge ride proved as popular as ever. For the first time in some years several clients rented cross-country skis and greatly enjoyed their outings on three successive days. As for the wildlife highlight? Racoon Dog may be a native from the Oriental faunal zone that has only colonised Poland via fur-farm escapees, but a superb view of a Racoon Dog in brilliant sunshine against pristine snow was voted one of the highlights of the trip.

To see a selection of excellent images taken by Peter Price (tour participant) click here.

Our next ‘Poland in Winter’ tours operate from Saturday 27th January – Sunday 4th February 2007 and from Saturday 19th – Sunday 27th January 2008.

To find out more click here or call Paul Stanbury on 01962 733051 for further details.

A new study has found that the decline of the Galapagos Waved Albatross (featured on the front of the 2007 Naturetrek brochure) population is linked to fishing. Approximately 1% of the entire world population is killed each year as a result of being harvested for human consumption or unintentionally caught whilst fishing.

Jill Awkerman, a graduate student from Wake Forest University said “If that happens every year, that is not sustainable,” and "In a matter of decades, you could be talking about extinction."

To read the full article click here.

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock by Peter Price

Everything about the Andes is spectacular! From the Caribbean coasts of Venezuela and Colombia to South America’s southernmost tip in Patagonia, the longest and geologically youngest mountain chain on earth is a domineering physical presence. Crowned by a string of majestic snow-clad peaks along much of the range, this is one of the most seismically active places on the planet. In between the world’s highest active volcanoes, a myriad of distinct micro-climates and ecosystems characterize the peaks and ridges, valleys and wet-forested slopes. The Andes is a place of extremes with climatic, altitudinal and geographical extremes as wide as any. Within these stunning landscapes a mouth-watering bonanza of birding opportunities are on offer to suit all tastes and constitutions.

Birdwatching in the Andes is so far removed from the typical experiences of a birding excursion in Britain that it is difficult to describe the sheer excitement – and bewilderment! – when first faced with a cloud forest feeding flock deep inside the forested slopes of the Andes. Here the cloud forest is low and often impenetrably dense, with gnarled trees and abundant epiphytes – moss, ferns, orchids and large fountains of bromeliad leaves. The duller-coloured birds of the forest under storey and bamboo thickets most often reveal themselves by their voices. Being surrounding by chirps, twitter and birdsong, yet with no individual bird in sight, can create unbelievable tension. Anticipation builds, then suddenly the flock is upon you; you catch sight of a pair of gaudy Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers and maybe a whitestart or two. Instantly you are surrounded by birds foraging for insects and berries. Flycatchers, tanagers, warblers and cryptically-plumaged furnariids (ovenbirds) flick through the foliage. You catch the dazzling blue on that tanager, but there are half a dozen blue tanagers here – which was it? That was a glimpse of yellow….but where did it go? The diversity is mind-boggling. More than 1,000 bird species can be found along a single 200 kilometre transect from the western edge of the Amazon floodplain to the eastern Andean ridge top. Ah! I remember that bird from my homework with the field guide. Red-bellied…….or was it Chestnut-bellied? Or Orange-chested?  Welcome to birding, Andean-style! The next encounter with a mixed flock yields good views and positive identification of five species and you are starting to get to grips with this dazzling new spectacle. Frustrating? Yes, initially. Exhilarating? Certainly!

Whilst being surrounded by a large mixed-species feeding flock is arguably the adrenaline-fuelled highlight of birding in the Andes, attractive side-shows are almost too numerous to mention. Many of the privately-owned lodges on the Andean slopes of Peru and Ecuador provide spectacular hummingbird viewing, with birds attracted by numerous sugar-water dispensing hummingbird feeders. Strictly an American family, ranging from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, these captivating, iridescent, glittering creatures reach their greatest diversity in the cloud forests of the Andes. Locations abound where it is possible to see over 20 species of “hummers” without switching hammocks! The names are evocative; Booted Racket-tail, Gorgeted Sunangel, Shining Sunbeam; the plumages stunning, and the photographic opportunities endless.

If the hummingbirds are the living jewels in the cloud forest drizzle, even they are surely eclipsed by the remarkable Cock of the Rock. A bright red, Jackdaw-sized bird, males romp strenuously and noisily on steep forested hillsides at displaying areas known as leks. Any cloud forest birding lodge worth its salt will be within striking distance of an active lek, for this is a spectacle not to be missed.  Each bird competes to be the loudest and brightest performer to impress the females, which in comparison are rather drab. One of the largest and best-known Cock of the Rock leks is located in the pristine Manu cloud forest on the verdant eastern slopes of the Peruvian Andes. Cock of the Rock Lodge offers comfortable accommodation to visiting birders, and the area provides home for an impressive supporting cast including Spectacled Bears, Woolly and Brown Capuchin Monkeys and those mind-boggling mixed species feeding flocks.

Saffron-crowned Tanager by Peter Price

Sandwiched between the high snowy peaks are the inhospitable plains. In Bolivia, southern Peru, Chile and Argentina the altiplano tends to be dry (most precipitations fall as snow, sleet and hail in January and February) with intense radiation from the sun. Further north, in Peru, Ecuador, Colombia and Venezuela, this highland zone is known as the páramo. It consists mainly of moorland, with small streams trickling through a boggy landscape. No birding visit to the Andes would be complete without a visit to these cold, high elevation bogs in search of some of the special birds which have evolved to live here. The bogs of Marcopomacocha in central Peru are home to a strange and exquisite wader, the almost mythical Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. Papallacta Pass in Ecuador and Lauca National Park in Chile are good examples of other localities where it is possible to see an exciting range of high altitude species including seedsnipe, miners, canasteros, and members of an interesting genus of hummingbirds called hillstars, which enter a torpor-like state to save energy during the frigid nights.

Countries like Peru and Ecuador have seen many privately-owned lodges spring up in the last 10 years or so. Typically surrounded by bird-rich habitat, numerous hummingbird feeders, well-constructed trails and, importantly, birder-friendly staff used to providing pre-dawn breakfasts and packed lunches, birding in the Andean countries is not as complicated as it once was. Cities such as Caracas, Quito, Lima and Santiago de Chile are serviced on daily flights from London (albeit with a connection en-route). Fares in a competitive market have never been more attractive (notwithstanding the current fuel surcharges) and never have birders been better catered for in terms of pre-trip information. Plentiful birding reports with invaluable logistical information are freely available on the internet, and aficionados of neotropical birding have been spoilt in recent years with such superb field guides as Ridgely’s Birds of Ecuador and Hilty’s Birds of Colombia (ironically little-used in the country for which it was intended!) and Birds of Venezuela. Together with ground-breaking new site guides such as Thomas Valqui’s Where to Watch Birds in Peru, there is an unprecedented amount of information available on planning a birding holiday in the region.

If a group holiday with like-minded enthusiasts is for you, then Naturetrek offer an unparalleled selection of tours to the region. We will also put together tailor-made tours to suit your own particular requirements. With so much logistical information now available, some birders will be tempted to organise a DIY holiday. Whilst car rental is available in the major cities, and local bus services extensive and cheap, beware that English is very little understood even in the major cities, and even Spanish is of limited use in the more remote areas of southern Peru and Bolivia. It is essential to keep abreast of Foreign Office Travel Advice as your travel insurance policy can be invalidated if you ignore their advice.

What of add-ons to Andean itineraries? How about the Galapagos Islands, or macaw clay licks, oxbow lakes and canopy walkways deep within the Amazon Rainforest. Or a cultural element, with a visit to the ancient hub of the South American travel network, Cusco, and the World Heritage Site of Machu Picchu. Possibilities are endless in this, the most biologically diverse of continents.

(This article, originally published in BirdWatching magazine, was written by Andy Tucker who manages most of Naturetrek's tours to South America. If you are interested in travelling to South America with Naturetrek why not contact Andy by phone on 01962 733051 or email to discuss your holiday)

by tour leader Paul Stanbury

Polar Bears by Paul Stanbury

There are occasional moments in life that will remain in the memory for ever; once in a lifetime experiences that you feel privileged to be a part of and are never likely to be matched. And so, there we were, wrapped in a dozen layers of clothing, tucking into a delicious on-deck barbecue, over 80 degrees north and surrounded by a crazy-paving of fjord ice on which roamed no less than 18 Polar Bears… up to four of which were themselves tucking in (to an unfortunate seal) beside our vessel. Nearby, two more adult Polar Bears were polishing off a second seal, whilst milling around were twelve Polar Bear onlookers, most of them mothers with small cubs ever hopeful of some scraps. Phrases have yet to be coined to fully describe the scene; it was truly breathtaking!

This was just one of innumerable highlights that filled Naturetrek's very first exclusive charter around the Arctic island of Spitsbergen. Organised to celebrate our 20th Anniversary, forty-eight faithful Naturetrekkers had chosen to join five Naturetrek staff tour leaders aboard the ice-strengthened MV Professor Molchanov in July 2006. Superbly led by expedition leader Rinie van Meurs, we spent ten nights exploring the Svalbard Archipelago, dipping in and out of spectacular glacier-lined fjords, visiting huge seabird colonies and enjoying some of the last wilderness left on Earth. Rinie had been guiding in Spitsbergen for over 20 years and even he was frequently amazed by what we were finding, given the singular sense of purpose of this dedicated wildlife voyage. Indeed, with a final Polar Bear tally of 57 individuals, we even beat his all-time record by 10!

Our journey began in the small town of Longyearbyen, the capital of Svalbard and 'one Reindeer town' as it is occasionally known! From here we headed north and then east to circumnavigate the northern-most island of Nordoustlandet before returning to Longyearbyen with enough bird and mammal experiences to fill a typical wildlife mini-series. Highlights are too numerous to mention in any detail, but as well as the aforementioned barbecue in Duvefjord, we enjoyed the sights of spinning Grey Phalaropes with tiny chicks (described by one client as ‘bumblebees on legs!’), the experience of being enveloped amongst the maniacal chittering of a huge Little Auk colony and cruising alongside the towering ice cliffs of the Monaco Glacier, one of the largest in Spitsbergen. At Phippsøya, whilst at the most northerly point attained during our voyage, we hopped into the zodiacs for an exciting ride to a faraway beach where a Sperm Whale carcass had been washed into shallow, beach-side waters. Here, a staggering 16 Polar Bears (another amazing gathering for such a solitary species) patrolled or rested on the beach; some gnawing on part of the backbone they had dragged ashore, others swimming out to dive for the blubber resting on the seabed beneath our zodiacs! Nearby, the island of Storøya gave us our best views of Walrus, plus Pomarine Skuas and Sabine's Gulls, whilst the several hundred thousand Brünnich's Guillemots crowded onto the basalt cliffs of 'Alkefielletuk Cliffs' made for another memorable stop. The Long-tailed Skuas at Bloomstrand performed wonderfully, as did an Arctic Fox family at Ny-Alesund (the starting point for many of the early 20th Century attempts at the North Pole) who were rearing their five cubs on a constant diet of goslings from an adjacent population of Barnacle Geese! Add to this several wonderful sightings of ghostly white Beluga Whales, Minke Whales, Svalbard Reindeer, King Eider, hundreds of Ivory Gulls and 24 hours of unbroken daylight and it is easy to see why our only problem was finding enough time to sleep.

Naturetrek group in Spitsbergen by Paul Stanbury

Our success was due in no small part to Rinie's wealth of Arctic experience and the Russian captain and crew who carefully and safely manoeuvred the Molchanov to give us the best possible views of the wildlife and scenery. A big thank you must also be extended, however, to the group and tour leaders, for their enthusiasm, good humour and selection of very bad jokes! The banter that developed during the trip made for a very enjoyable time for all. It was often noted that chartering the whole ship had given us a great advantage for, not only did we have 53 wildlife enthusiasts on board, but we could tailor the voyage, in conjunction with Rinie, to suit our wildlife viewing needs. There could surely have been no better way to have celebrated 20 years of Naturetrek holidays than on this Arctic voyage. Its success has fuelled a demand for – and fired our enthusiasm to arrange – more such exclusive Naturetrek charters in the future, and it has set a high benchmark that will be very hard to beat; though a challenge we are more than happy to accept!

To find out more information about travelling to this stunning destination with Naturetrek click here or phone Paul Stanbury on 01962 733051.