I first visited Sri Lanka on a three month back-packing holiday in the 1970's and returned home besotted with the charms of this remarkable country. If paradise existed on earth this was surely it; a lush tropical island where luscious fruits and vegetables grew in abundance,superb wetlands teemed with birdlife, over a score of endemic bird species offered quality birdwatching and above all, friendly hospitable locals who extended a warm welcome to strangers, by no means a common experience during my back-packing travels elsewhere! I loved every moment of my stay and resolved to return as quickly as possible, a wish that was happily granted a few years later when I began work for a bird tour company and organised a three week tour which I made sure I led! Since then I have been fortunate indeed to have returned to Sri Lanka on dozens of occasions and my love affair has endured throughout the years, albeit tempered by the realisation that even in this paradise there are imperfections which at times have threatened to spoil the idyll. Someone once commented to me that Sri Lankans must be genetically programmed to smile at the world, which I think perfectly captures the national characteristic of the islanders, but in recent years darker forces have prevailed and the historical sources of contention between the island Tamil and Sinhalese populations have led to bloody acts of violence between the so-called Tamil Tigers and the Sri Lankan army. It is a complex dispute, which for an outsider is as difficult to comprehend as the troubles in Northern Ireland, and the consequences have mirrored those of Belfast in a tragic loss of lives over the years of the struggle. Incongruous though it may seem, tourism has continued to flourish, and for birdwatching groups, the areas visited in the south of the island are far removed from the fighting which is confined to the disputed Tamil territories in the north and east which are effectively sealed off from the rest of the country. It is strange to contrast the verdant serenity of Sinharaja Forest with the horrors of a war zone but this is the reality of modern Sri Lanka and for much of the island, life continues very much as normal with only the newspaper headlines to remind readers of the conflict. Sri Lankans are resilient people, as demonstrated by the way they coped with the aftermath of the Boxing Day tsunami, but tourism is vital to the economy of the country and it is very important that potential visitors aremade aware that the island is still a great holiday destination regardless of negative and frequently misleading media reports.
So what makes Sri Lanka an ideal destination for naturalists? For a start there is a wonderfully diverse avifauna which contains 33 endemic species, most of which can be seen with relative ease. Winter visitors from northern Asia include exciting species such as Indian Pitta, Kashmir Flycatcher and Pied Ground Thrush whilst the abundant wetlands, which are a feature of the island, accommodate vast numbers of herons,waders, wildfowl and other waterbirds. In contrast to many other areas in Asia Sri Lanka still retains large areas of wetland habitat whether in the form of ancient irrigation reservoirs ,or 'tanks', paddy-fields, village ponds or coastal lagoons. Birdlife is obvious wherever you go and in the lush forests of the south lurk such exotic creatures as the endemic Sri Lanka Blue Magpie, one of the most colourful birds you could ever hope to see. Mammal enthusiasts will not be disappointed; Sri Lanka is the best place in Asia to observe Indian Elephants, Leopards are regularly on view at Yala National Park, Giant Squirrels chase through the forest canopies and three species of resident monkey include two endemic to the Island. Wild Boar, various deer and the ubiquitous Palm Squirrels are also likely to be seen. Huge Crocodiles and Water Monitors are the largest representatives of a very diverse lizard population and a myriad of butterfly species add colour to every outing. Add to this mix, an amazing flora and I think the case is made for Sri Lanka to be regarded as a premier Asian natural history venue. Happily these wildlife attributes are also combined with an interesting culture, exemplified by well preserved archaelogical sites set amid pleasant parklands where sightseeing dovetails perfectly into birdwatching.
I admit to being hopelessly biased but I strongly recommend a visit to this wonderful island and will be very happy to answer any queries that readers may have. Naturetrek operates a number of varied tours each year and our local team of naturalists in Sri Lanka are second to none. If you are looking for an escape from the greyness of the British winter Sri Lanka is the perfect solution!
To find out more about Naturetrek tours to this exciting destination visit the Sri Lanka page