by Leon Marais
The overnight rain had soaked the bush and thick, late-summer grass, turning the open road into a relatively dry pathway. We saw them as we came round a corner – a couple of Spotted Hyenas, looking very agitated and alert. We didn’t even have time to think about the cause of their unease before a large male Lion appeared out of the bush to the right. Hornbills flew by, a Lilac-breasted Roller squawked from atop a thorn tree and a flock of Red-billed Quelea passed like a cloud overhead, but all were ignored, the group transfixed by this impressive beast as he lumbered out onto the road and tore off after one of the hapless hyenas. The hyenas were weary however, and were not going to get caught this time. As the animals disappeared into the vastness of the Kruger National Park and the excitement wore off, I turned the vehicle back towards camp and once again we began concentrating on the birds – Yellow-Billed, Red-billed, Grey and Southern Ground Hornbills, Lilac-breasted, Purple and European Rollers, Green Wood-Hoopoe, Marabou Stork, Swainson’s Spurfowl, Green-winged Pytilia, Woodland Kingfisher and such other typical Kruger birds. Not a bad morning, I thought.
Spotted Hyena and Lion by Leon Marais
Although it’s not quite true to call such a morning typical, which occurred on the April 2006 Naturetrek Bargain Birding Tour, incredible moments and experiences are guaranteed when spending time in the Kruger National Park. And while the Kruger may well be the highlight of the South African Bargain Birds tour, there’s a lot more to be seen and experienced. The tour kicks off in Johannesburg, with a three hour drive east to the charming town of Dullstroom, at two-thousand metres above sea level one of South Africa’s highest towns, where we spend the first two nights. The area is dominated by extensive free-range livestock farming, and the scenic high-altitude grasslands remain relatively unspoilt and are home to many of South Africa’s endemic birds. The full day here gives ample time to explore the region, and the focus is usually on the Veloren Valei / Lost Valley Nature Reserve (pictured to the left) high up in the Steenkampsberg Range. Birding highlights here include endemics and specials such as Sentinel Rock-Thrush, Buff-streaked Chat, Gurney’s Sugarbird, Ground Woodpecker, Denham’s Bustard, Secretarybird, Red-winged and Grey-winged Francolins and many others. Mammals include Blesbok, Mountain Reedbuck, Grey Rhebok, Yellow Mongoose and, with some luck, Serval and Black-backed Jackal.
After Dullstroom the tour heads on to the Blyde River Canyon, with a morning stop at Mount Sheba on the escarpment edge for some forest birding. South African forest birding can be difficult and erratic, but the rewards of Narina Trogon, Olive Woodpecker, Cape Batis, Starred Robin and the like can make it most worthwhile. After a hearty breakfast we move on to our night’s accommodation on the edge of the Blyde River Canyon, where the upland grasslands meet the dryer savannah, and here have the chance to see a whole new host of birds, including rock and cliff specials such as Mocking Cliff-Chat, Shelly’s Francolin, White-necked Raven and Verreaux’s Eagle, as well as some tremendous and awe-inspiring scenery (the Three Rondavels view site is pictured above right). Moving on we head down to the flat savannah via the Abel Erasmus Pass, with a quick stop to view the resident Taita Falcon pair, one of the country’s rarest resident birds. The pair nest on a cliff high above the road and good scope-views are almost guaranteed. We then hit the savannah and enter the 20 000 square-kilometre Kruger National Park via Orpen Gate. Here the going gets really slow – not because of the road conditions, but by virtue of the fact that almost every bush and tree holds new birds for the tour (the record is six hours to cover the 50 kilometres to the gate!). This is also where the mammal viewing begins in earnest, and it’s not unknown to tick-off several of the Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and Cape buffalo)on the way to the first camp. We usually stay at three different camps (depending on availability), with two nights at Satara in the open Knob-thorn / Marula savannah of the south-central region, one night at Skukuza along the Sabie River and a final night at one of the more southerly camps. Exact numbers of birds and mammals seen will vary according to the time of year, but bird lists of over 300 species and mammal lists of over 40 species are possible. Indeed the beauty of this tour is the diversity of habitats covered in a relatively short distance. From 2000 metre-plus grasslands to warm, low-lying savannah, the scenery, fauna and flora components change radically during the tour, all without travelling huge distances (all overnight stops are less than 100 – 150 kilometres apart).
Martial Eagle and Long-tailed Widowbirds by Leon Marais
For those more keen on animals than birds there is the Bargain Mammal Tour. This tour has one night in Dullstroom as a overnight between Johannesburg and the Kruger National Park, where it is also possible to see mammals such as Black Wildebeest, Blesbok, Mountain Reedbuck and Grey Rhebok that are typical of the high altitude grasslands and are not found lower down in the Kruger National Park. The next six nights are spent at various camps in the Kruger, which gives ample time out in the field to find exciting species such as Lion, Leopard, Cheetah, White and Black Rhino, Elephant, Cape Buffalo, Hippopotamus, Nile Crocodile and many others. While the main focus is on the mammals, we still look at some of the more obvious, large and colourful birds (as opposed to identifying each and every Little Brown Job we come across).
All in all these two tours offer an incredible introductory South African experience, taking in a diverse range of habitats, fauna and flora without having to cross continents. There are no internal flights and the only long commute is the return to Johannesburg on the last day of the tour. The pace depends on the individual requirements, and there is usually an opportunity to catch up on rest during the mid-day and early afternoon. Most morning and afternoon excursions are optional, though staying in camp is definitely not recommend, as you never know what you might miss!
Birding Blyde Canyon by Leon Marais
Naturetrek offer a variety of wildlife holidays to South Africa ranging from bargain bird and mammal watching tours to dedicated botany tours. If you have any questions regarding wildlife holidays in South Africa then please phone Paul Stanbury on 01962 733051 or email paul@naturetrek.co.uk.